Thread: DIY Lower Control Arm Bush Replacement

Originally Posted by shanegtr

I've got a nice big copper gympie which I give a decent whack on the hub in the direction of the arrow in the pic. Ball joint pops straight out with no more stuffing around (at least it did for me)
Attachment 133253

Yep a nice big whack in the right spot and it pops out in one hit! Just back the nut off until it's flush so it doesn't fall off. I did have to remove and replace the 32mm hub nut which AF supply in there kit. Attached notes with torque settings.

Originally Posted by Russrobe

Yep a nice big whack in the right spot and it pops out in one hit! Just back the nut off until it's flush so it doesn't fall off. I did have to remove and replace the 32mm hub nut which AF supply in there kit. Attached notes with torque settings.

By jacking up the hub to 466mm you set it to normal ride height(make sure you lift off the chassis in normal height so you can do this step) Otherwise you will need a pit to torque the bolts with the car on the ground. Vital to torque the bolts at this height so the control arms are sitting in their driving position or you could destroy your new bushes in no time.

Originally Posted by Russrobe

By jacking up the hub to 466mm you set it to normal ride height(make sure you lift off the chassis in normal height so you can do this step) Otherwise you will need a pit to torque the bolts with the car on the ground. Vital to torque the bolts at this height so the control arms are sitting in their driving position or you could destroy your new bushes in no time.

Also by marking the eccentrics with some black spray paint and a screwdriver to mark the centre you get near on perfect alignment although I'm not sure how the toe ended up being out so far! Wheel alignment required afterwards to check.

Originally Posted by Russrobe

Also by marking the eccentrics with some black spray paint and a screwdriver to mark the centre you get near on perfect alignment although I'm not sure how the toe ended up being out so far! Wheel alignment required afterwards to check.

That note isn't in order for removal though correct order would be.

1.Lift of chassis with car in normal height and lower to jack stands. Then remove underbody plates including plastic one.
2.Remove wheels, knock out hub nut holder and remove 32mm nut, tap in the shaft.
3. Remove shock absorber bolt.
4. Back off nuts on eccentrics and ball joint until flush.
5. Whack ball joint as above until it pops up.
6. Remove eccentrics and drop arms down.
7. Remove ball joint nut and lift out.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Yes exactly.



Well I may have misunderstood other threads but I thought that you had to have this very expensive tool to remove and insert the new bushes and that is why everyone is buying complete arms rather than just buying the bushes and changing them over. If I am wrong and they can be replaced using a normal garage press at home then great - I am glad to be proven wrong.

Garry

I replace the complete arms on customers vehicles as its quicker than doing the bush, but also the front bush gets done as does the lower ball joint

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by Russrobe

That note isn't in order for removal though correct order would be.

1.Lift of chassis with car in normal height and lower to jack stands. Then remove underbody plates including plastic one.

is this just the front two wheel of the car (by the chassis), also in manual it says to jack from access mode ?

Originally Posted by haydent

is this just the front two wheel of the car (by the chassis), also in manual it says to jack from access mode ?

Access mode means less pressure in the air strut which is important in fitting the bolt through that bush. I found access mode still had too much pressure to compress the strut and fit the bolt. I needed to deflate strut with the Nanacom then went easily.

Merry Xmas fellow LR tragics.

Does anyone have a front lower suspension arm bush tool to sell/rent/loan to me?
I have a spare pair of front lower control arms & a set of new Merle bushes which need pressing.

Keep the shiny side up.