Thread: Never towed/owned a caravan before.. advice

I'm no electrician but yes if it's over 750kg you'll need a brake controller by law. As to parking on a hill I'd suggest you use chocks as well because the handbrake shouldn't trusted.
AlanH.

Have a look at the compliance plate on the a frame of the van, that will give the GTM. If it is over 2 tonne you will need a brake controller. If the GTM is under 2 tonne but doesn't have a coupling with over-ride brakes you will need to change the coupling or use a brake controller.

As for the plugs it is best to make an adapter between the vans 12pin plug and the two Landrover sockets. I wouldn't be running the fridge using the original Jayco wiring as it puts 15A through the 12 pin plug and I have seen them start to melt from the heat. It is best to re-wire using some decent cable and an Anderson plug. The Jayco wiring will only trickle charge the battery when connected to the car which I think is next to useless so I like to re-wire that as well.

Parking can be done safely on a slope but I would chock the wheels as well as use the handbrake.

Luke,

For the brake controller, you really should get yourself acquainted with this sticky thread> D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring
Even if you don't diy you need to ensure the fitment is done correctly.

For the plug you have options and there's been quite a few threads on the various ways people have done it, including:
- convert D4 to have a 12 pin interface
- make up a lead to connect from the two sockets on the D4 to the 12 pin plug on the van

This thread has good info and links> 12S Tow electrics (white plug) removal

General things you'd like to know about caravans would be best asked here> https://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-and-campers/

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by Geedublya

If it is over 2 tonne you will need a brake controller. If the GTM is under 2 tonne but doesn't have a coupling with over-ride brakes you will need to change the coupling or use a brake controller.

Not entirly acurate - if it has electric brakes (which the OP's van does) then you'll need a brake controller for them. For trailers under 2t the brakes can be either electric or hydraulic/cable override. As the OP's van is electric brakes then he shouldnt have an override coulpling.
Over 2t GTM you'll need breakaway brakes (at least here in WA you do)

Originally Posted by shanegtr

Not entirly acurate - if it has electric brakes (which the OP's van does) then you'll need a brake controller for them. For trailers under 2t the brakes can be either electric or hydraulic/cable override. As the OP's van is electric brakes then he shouldnt have an override coulpling.
Over 2t GTM you'll need breakaway brakes (at least here in WA you do)

My understanding is over 750kg but under 2 tonne you need trailer brakes, what form that takes is entirely up to you. On my previous van I had both electric brakes and over ride brakes. I could then tow it with a car without a brake controller and it gave me redundancy if I had a problem with the electric brakes.

In NSW you also need breakaway brakes and a remote battery monitor if the trailer is over 2 tonne.

Braking system

The minimum braking system for a trailer depends on the type of trailer, its weight and the weight of the vehicle:

• 0 – 750 kg loaded weight – no brakes required.
• 751 – 2000 kg loaded weight – braking on both wheels on at least one axle.
• 2001– 4500 kg loaded weight – braking on all wheels, and an automatic breakaway system in case the trailer becomes detached from the vehicle.

Brakes must be operable from the driver’s seating position.

The other thing you may also need to consider is does the van have anti sway? Mine does and it was wired through a RED anderson plug. They are different to the GREY ones and they are not interchangeable. (e do not connect with one another). I installed the traxide dual battery with the anderson plug to the rear and piggybacked a red plug as well onto it. The van fridge runs through the grey plug and the red for the anti sway. As Scott says there is very good instructions on how to fit/wire the plugs and brake controllers. Some are very long threads and in reality the wiring diagrams and all the info you need is in the last 2-3 pages.

Originally Posted by Geedublya

My understanding is over 750kg but under 2 tonne you need trailer brakes, what form that takes is entirely up to you. On my previous van I had both electric brakes and over ride brakes. I could then tow it with a car without a brake controller and it gave me redundancy if I had a problem with the electric brakes.

In NSW you also need breakaway brakes and a remote battery monitor if the trailer is over 2 tonne.

Braking system

The minimum braking system for a trailer depends on the type of trailer, its weight and the weight of the vehicle:

• 0 – 750 kg loaded weight – no brakes required.
• 751 – 2000 kg loaded weight – braking on both wheels on at least one axle.
• 2001– 4500 kg loaded weight – braking on all wheels, and an automatic breakaway system in case the trailer becomes detached from the vehicle.

Brakes must be operable from the driver’s seating position.

Yes correct, I was more pointing out that if electric brakes are fitted then chances are the coupling wont be an override type and if you do have override brakes then a controler is not normally required

As your van already has electric brakes your best solution will be to install an electric brake controller in your car. We have a Redarc Pro in our D4, installed by the local LR dealer, and once it had a proper earth (grrr!) it worked great.

DO NOT try towing your van just using an adapter harness to connect as you may find the connector pin commonly used in Aus for electric brakes will become suddenly active when the car lights go on, as that pin is used in UK for auxiliary trailer lights! This should be fixed when you get a brake controller installed.

For power to a van I first tried taking power from the standard connectors and found they were limited to 15A, with a fuse behind the glove box. Since then I have fitted a Traxide 2nd battery and power feed direct to an Anderson plugs at the rear of the car so we now have 40A (or is it 50A, can't remember) available.

I have an adapter harness I made from 2 round plugs that fit the std sockets (bought from ebay) to a 12 pin socket, for connecting trailers with 7 or 12 pin plugs.