I have one in my spares but I’m one to replace known problematic gear before failure, so I might do mine this afternoon and recondition the old one for the spares cab.
Such an innocent component with such a simple fault can be the cause of so much grief!!
Dirty contacts cause all sorts of electrical gremlins in these cars. Mine manifested itself as not changing gear followed by EAS fault and limp mode. $32 from Ford for the Territory version or $65 for the same switch from LR!!
2 minutes to fix!! Do it now!!
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Oztourer
MY05 TDV6 HSE, Buckingham Blue
Front Runner Slimline II roofrack and rear ladder, Safari Snorkle, Mitch Hitch, Traxide D3-DU, Bushman Fridge, Icom IC-440N UHF, Hema HN7, Tyredog TPMS, GVIF and reversing camera
I have one in my spares but I’m one to replace known problematic gear before failure, so I might do mine this afternoon and recondition the old one for the spares cab.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
You and me both DJ, that's why I changed stuff like axles/driven ends on the Puma (for sale) because they are a known weakness and I don't like things going wrong especially on bush runs.
We never had anything other than superficial glitches on any of our cars and that's the way I like it. Little things like that switch can make life hard.
AlanH.
7E5Z13480A. It's actually a Motorcraft part (SW6572). If you're not in a hurry it looks like you can get them a bit cheaper on Ebay.
1976 LR 90 Hybrid GONE
1985 RRC chev GONE
1997 D1 V8 GONE
1973 RRC Gone
1980'RRC Build in progress GOING
Disco wrecking 93 & 94
1993 RRC LSE
From the FB page
1976 LR 90 Hybrid GONE
1985 RRC chev GONE
1997 D1 V8 GONE
1973 RRC Gone
1980'RRC Build in progress GOING
Disco wrecking 93 & 94
1993 RRC LSE
Mine was clean as a whistle. Yes it’s only 7 years old but has nearly 250k km under its belt. I swapped it anyhow and put the old one back into the spares box (once I found the spring and mechanism that blew apart over the garage floor lol.
It’s actually a really cool switch. It has an inbuilt mechanism to set the correct brake light free play. When you insert it it sets the correct switch depth position. When you then turn it to engage it, a mechanism engages to lock it into the correct position. This avoids the old days of setting the switch height manually, trying to measure a gap of 1.5mm under the dash.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
So is there a method to remove the old one without the spring escaping?
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Its failure is reasonably common on both D3 and D4, on the D4 its does weird things such as causing the front brakes to partially apply.
Regards
Daz
Regards
Daz
I slightly split the case when I opened mine up. Only did it for curiosity. For $32 it's not worth trying to clean an old switch imo. This is how to remove them:
How To Access The Brake Light Switch On An LR3
Oztourer
MY05 TDV6 HSE, Buckingham Blue
Front Runner Slimline II roofrack and rear ladder, Safari Snorkle, Mitch Hitch, Traxide D3-DU, Bushman Fridge, Icom IC-440N UHF, Hema HN7, Tyredog TPMS, GVIF and reversing camera
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