Thread: Rear Fridge Connector

Originally Posted by josh.huber

Which oven did you get??

RCL12VO.jpg
I chose it coz it was a little bigger than others, had a cam lock insulated door and came with brackets for fastening down.
Other than that I am no travel oven expert!

Works a treat tho.

Cheers
Ralph

Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph

RCL12VO.jpg
I chose it coz it was a little bigger than others, had a cam lock insulated door and came with brackets for fastening down.
Other than that I am no travel oven expert!

Works a treat tho.

Cheers
Ralph

Yeah nice, my mate loves his. It's on my list

Originally Posted by josh.huber

Those fuse holders do that all the time, they are great for a shock load or dead short, but not much else, they generate heat around the fuse connection because they are not tight enough. Your right. They stink. Lucky you ended up with dinner and not a roast elsewhere!

Which oven did you get??

Good ones are fine for lighter loads. Narva for eg have very tight fitting blade fuses. I would not use any for maxi fuses any more (for that Blue Seas bakerlight holder or go to ceramic fuses). I have tried good quality Narva plugs but have now modified all my gear to Anderson plugs (and where necessary wired a cig plug in also to allow use in cig sockets- eg 12 v pie cookers). But fridge is Anderson for eg - no warm beers after several 100 ks of corrugations and no broken flimsy narva plugs/cig plugs. Cheers

Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph

Hello Everyone!
An old thread but an update that y'all might find interesting.

I purchased a 12V oven for last Fathers Day and up until recently, only used it in plugged into my camper.
Was on Fraser Island last week and decided to plug it into my car, out of the weather.
I know it draws 8.6 A and my waeco maybe 3-5. I fused the circuit at 15A when wiring the outlets (that's the earlier bit of this thread), so I thought, all good!

To set the scene, the car smelt of a wonderful plum sauced pork roast when I checked and was about 3/4 cooked. Sweet!
I went to check it again about 20 min later and immediately knew something was up!
The cabin no longer smelt of pork, but of acrid melted plastic! Bugger!
Thing was, the oven and fridge were both still running as normal.

I pulled both plugs out and whipped the access cover off to find this:
Attachment 176139 Attachment 176140
I've removed the char to inspect the fuse, but until I did, the cct was still intact, even though the fuse case had melted from the filament!
Over the years I've had fuses melt before blowing, but not to this extent or this length of time.

Here's the fascinating bit....the engineer in me snipped the melted holder out, as in the pics and temporarily re-terminated with spades and a new fuse.
Upon reconnection of the oven (leaving the fridge off till the roast cooks) I did a basic touch test of all the wiring to see if there was any heat build up.
I found that the wire between the original fuse holder crimp join and the now temp fuse, was warming quickly....Aha!
The crimp join was high resistance. This caused the overall power consumption of the circuit to increase and be dissipated as heat.
In this case, both the fridge and oven being predominately resistive loads and designed to dissipate excess heat, have largely fixed electrical characteristics.
The only real variable was the additional cct resistance, thus power dissipation (wattage), causing the weakest thermal component to suffer, whilst raising the current draw so gradually that the fuse didn't pop!

Anyhoo, I've decided to run a new, separately fused circuit for the oven using an Anderson plug and fatter gauge wire.
So where to mount the Anderson plug? I reckon I'll actually just leave it free and coil it up behind the panel when not in use.

Cheers.
Ralph

PS, the roast finished and was yummmmmmmmy!
PPS. I re-crimped the crimp and all was good.

Hey Ralph the current didn't increase due to the high resistance crimp, Ohms law will show you the truth, (V=IR) voltage is constant (your battery) resistance is increased therefore current decreased. I suspect your fuse holder had a poor connection or wasn't rated for the current you were pulling through it which caused it to heat up resulting the melted plastic. The bad crimp was another point of resistance and so heated up.