D3 EGR Valve Removal Latest Options?

I like your idea and something that I have been thinking about, there must be a sensor or such that triggers the cel and tells the ECU they aren't working.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Reviving this thread with a new idea for the brainstrust to comment.

My question is around deleting the EGR function with blanks combined with emulator or mapping (or keeping working EGRs plugged in) to keep the ECU happy is the normal process on later engines.

In this process the EGR cooler is blanked where it joins the EGR electric valve but is still filled with hot gas and coolant going through the internal cooler pipe circuit presenting a failure risk long term in my opinion.

Wouldn’t the following be smarter;

1. Remove EGR Cooler and blank exhaust manifold outlet.

2. Sort and plug coolant pipe work to cooler.

3. Leave working EGR in place plugged in.

4. Apply needed blanking plates to EGR unit and manifold pipe work.

Why wouldn’t this work? You’ve kept the ECU stock and removed a source of failure in the Cooler.

I’ve read in UK that people have removed the coolers and associated pipe work.

My EGRs have no problem so far but I don’t think they go forever.

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You can't alter/blank the air flow through the EGRs and leave them enabled because the ECU monitors the flow (at least in the later models). I found this out the hard way in my '07 MY08. It will throw multiple codes including transmission fault which prevents gear shifting - all related to incorrect EGR flow. I then had them disabled via the ECU and it's been fine ever since. Superchips did this for me.

Just did this on one 2 weeks ago while I had the body off to do heads , it also deletes 5 hoses and crossover cooler pipe in the process .
I left the coolers in place ( no coolant or gases inside ) to act as a heat shield from the exhaust manifolds . I could if I had more time manufacture extra heat shields but no need really.

The plates from a td5 egr delete kit will fit on the tdv6 manifolds when approx 2mm is taken out from the outside edge of the bolt holes.

I will get around to fitting an EGT gauge to see what these run at pre and post tuning.......eventually [bigwhistle]

yes emulators or mapping out of egr is required for bosch system

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Just did this on one 2 weeks ago while I had the body off to do heads , it also deletes 5 hoses and crossover cooler pipe in the process .
I left the coolers in place ( no coolant or gases inside )

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Wow thanks for this. A good solution leaving them on and empty.

Love to see on a diagram the pipes removed (a good thing).

Edit: found picture

Attachment 150038

WAP500380 removed
(Seems has a supply pipe connection not shown)
LR006638 removed?
(Presume is return pipe)
PEI500020 T-piece removed?

Attachment 150041

Could it could be done body on?

A hell of lot of the engine plumbing is EGR related!

I’d read of people buying new EGRs and just having them connected loose in the engine bay to fool the system. Maybe ok on post MY07 EU4 cars?

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Originally Posted by discorevy

I will get around to fitting an EGT gauge to see what these run at pre and post tuning.......

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Very interested to learn how coolant temp is affected. I read one of the Cooler lines came from the thermostat so I was worried the thermostat needed the Cooler supply to function properly?

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Wow thanks for this. A good solution leaving them on and empty.

Love to see on a diagram the pipes removed (a good thing).

Edit: found picture

Attachment 150038

WAP500380 removed
(Seems has a supply pipe connection not shown)
LR006638 removed?
(Presume is return pipe)
PEI500020 T-piece removed?


The one I did was early model which has different cooling routing, and I think that diagram is incomplete , from memory WAP500380 has a T piece as well which may run to the heater matrix, if that is the case then PEI500020 should run to the other matrix pipe , I really need to see an EU4 ( a bugger because I had one here 2 days ago ) to be sure . When I get one in next I'll have a look.

Attachment 150041

Could it could be done body on?

If you can get to the bolts and clip on the u shaped pipe from manifold to egr cooler then yes.

A hell of lot of the engine plumbing is EGR related!

I’d read of people buying new EGRs and just having them connected loose in the engine bay to fool the system. Maybe ok on post MY07 EU4 cars?

the later system uses measurements from the maf and map sensors which must be within set parameters when egr on signal is given otherwise cel will come on there might be some early my 2007 exceptions

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Very interested to learn how coolant temp is affected. I read one of the Cooler lines came from the thermostat so I was worried the thermostat needed the Cooler supply to function properly?

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coolant temp not affected ,this was proven with a hungry sand exit from Bornholm beach suzuki track last weekend .:firedevil: EGT = exhaust gas temperature, which is the gauge I want to fit to measure the peak when loading tunes using the factory map as a baseline

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Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz

I have a 2009 D3 (VIN ending 5AG0325xx). I believe my EGR valves are getting stuck again although I cannot confirm this until I get my Nanocom back from repairs. Last year I had an issue with the car not being able to pull away from an intersection and at that time the Nanocom showed the EGR's were stuck open. A hammer and a length of wood fixed them.

The car is at 128,000km so I have little doubt that the EGR's are failing and due for replacement.

I had a quick looksee a few months ago and it looked like a pair of genuine valves from the UK might be around $750 landed however I just looked again and am now confused which ones my year takes. Ideas?

What are the current options for deleting the EGR valves. I believe my year/model is such that I cannot just unplug them. I have seen emulators for sale but these seemed to have been pretty much the same (if not more) in cost than just replacing the valves. Are there other options such as using the Nanocom to play inside the black boxes?

Is it even worth deleting them (I do like to keep my cars standard where possible).

Sorry to bring up something that has been discussed many times but I am just some confused with it all!!!

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why would you need more hp, 254 seems plenty, at least to me it does.

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Originally Posted by stuarth44

why would you need more hp, 254 seems plenty, at least to me it does.

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D3 so 2.7 is 140kw so a lot less than 254bhp.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

D3 so 2.7 is 140kw so a lot less than 254bhp.

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ok, i have that mill in my tdv6 2.7, have some niggles with that car but prefer the stick to paddles it has 230000 on it

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

D3 so 2.7 is 140kw so a lot less than 254bhp.

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My D4 2.7 makes 230bhp [bigwhistle]