Hi
I have a traxide duel battery set up
At the moment both are AGM
My main battery is a bit stuffed and mechanic is recommending an Exide non AGM
Is this ok? If done do I have to gerlt them to reset something in the car
Is there any effect on the traxide charging
When I put my car on the trickle feed via one of those CTEK charges I connect it to the main battery and it charges the aux battery via the traxide gear
If the main battery is nolonger AGM will setting the charger to what it is be ok
Many thanks
Richard
From memory I'm pretty sure Drivesafe said it wasn't that critical, I remember worrying about this myself when Tim reassured me it was fine.
We added an extra battery when we were in the Kimberley as the Yellow Top we had wasn't coping running a fridge and freezer it is your typical lead acid deep cycle battery.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Talked to Tim and he confirmed it is ok
Also confirmed to leave my ctek charger on agm even though not charging an agm directly
The reason the mechanic gave me was that the AGM run to hot under the bonnet and the calcium are the better options
Big difference in cost so hope it is true
Richard
The Traxide should cope fine connecting two different types of batteries. I have a starting battery and an AGM connected by a Traxide and no issues.
Within the bowels of the GAP IID tool there are 2 options to set when replacing batteries. No idea of how critical this is but they are there, so must be there for some reason.
Yes, The flooded cell batteries which were originally fitted to the early model D4s often failed early. Mine did and others reported on it here and the UK forum. Was speculated this was due to short driving trips and possibly the way the D4 charging system worked. When they failed under warranty they were replaced by LR with AGM batteries. I think this was because AGM accepted charge faster.
2024 RRS on the road
2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
And because AGM batteries can sustain being taken to lower voltages without damage. The Discovery isn’t kind on batteries and use a lot of power when offline, so drop lower. Depending on the usage of the vehicle this isn’t an issue as it’s never left long enough to drop low enough. AGM are however more sensitive to temperature so it’s a balancing act. Your vehicle usage pattern will dictate the most appropriate solution
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Just picked up the car and new battery installed.
An EXIDE DIN88MF.
DIN88MF
I think it is calcium. I was told it was an AGM but different type. Don't seem like it.
I asked whether a BMS reset would be required but was told no. Only need that if had lost power altogether. Don't understand this or implications of it not being done if required.
Should I put the car on a trickle charge now for good luck? My feeling is I will in a couple of days. Want to see how it goes without.
Turned out more expensive than I hoped. I had asked them to see if I had a battery leak, given the problems I have had. The testing to see that I needed a new battery cost the same as the battery. Would have been cheaper to just ask for a new battery. Could have got the full AGM for this price.
However knowing there is no leaks is good. I thought I had this done before but not as thoroughly as this time.
To make me feel better I got stung by a wasp just before picking it up.
Both hurt!
Richard
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