Thread: Permanent power from Traxide back to accessories and dash - design?

Originally Posted by Redtail

I have successfully installed a Traxide D4-5U (in my 2011 D4), and I've got half an idea about how vehicle electrics work. And I'm smart enough to know that half an idea can lead to twice as much trouble. And as much as I've searched, I can't find an answer. Rather than email Tim, I thought I'd ask here to help others.

There's also a UHF to go in at some point, but that'll be switched through the ignition and I've found a "spare" power wire from a laser jammer I just removed.
I don't see any reason to have the UHF permanently powered. Happy to be persuaded otherwise on that one.

I'm sure you'll get plenty of feedback on the other questions but to address this one specifically, I went through a similar thought process for my UHF but ended up powering it permanently off the second battery.

Main reason for the permanent power was that when we're in camp and people are coming in and out etc. I like to leave the radio on so we're contactable and can hear what's going on. As the D4 ignition switches off after quite a limited time you effectively lose this listening ability.

Final point, on mine (ICom IC-450N) and I'm sure many/most others you can set the radio to turn itself off after a preset time with no activity. This is the mode I have it in around town to avoid it being on without me knowing -I don't usually have the (remote) handset plugged in so wouldn't know it was on. When I'm touring I just turn this setting off so the radio stays on unless I specifically switch it off, like when we go to bed...

David

I agree with David's comments re UHF and have done the same with my GME.
However I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that when the remote headset was unplugged the unit would be off automatically.

Originally Posted by l00kin4

I don't usually have the (remote) handset plugged in so wouldn't know it was on.

Good thread on dash cam install here:
Installing a Blackvue Dual Channel Dashcam into a D4

Cheers,
Scott

I've run a cable from the 2nd battery to a Baintech fuse box BAINTECH 6 Way Fuse Block in the box under the bonnet on the driver's side and run some leads into the cabin through the firewall. Mind you it gets crowded with the extra power leads and antennae cable but this way you have easy access to fuses. You can power the cig lighters and the radio from there.

Originally Posted by LRD414

I agree with David's comments re UHF and have done the same with my GME.
However I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that when the remote headset was unplugged the unit would be off automatically.

Cheers,
Scott

This made me second guess myself and double check. Checked this morning and can confirm that the ICom IC-450N definitely stays on when the handset is unplugged - until the Auto-off setting switches it off.

David

IMGA0979.jpg

I made up a small board with an 8 slot fuse holder and relay. Power comes directly from the Traxide system, and there is a trigger wire from ignition to operate the relay.
Three of the fuse positions are powered direct from the incoming wire from the Traxide system, meaning that they have power all the time (this incoming line is also fused separately).
The other five fuse positions are powered (still from the Traxide / aux. battery) through the relay triggered by the vehicle's ignition - so only have power when ignition is on.
There is also an earth bus on the board, so all accessories are earthed to this, with a heavy earth cable running to an earth point behind the driver's side kick panel (which is also where the power wire joins onto the Traxide wire that goes through to the rear of the vehicle).

The board lives up above the drop-down panel beneath the steering wheel and is easy to get to. I have powered all of my internal "after market" accessories from this board, as I got sick of having multiple wires and double adapters etc with everything plugged into the two sockets in the console. Dash-cam and UHF radio are permanently powered, as is my phone cradle. Hema Navigator, TPMS and radar detector (yes, we're still allowed to have them over here - the nanny state rules have not crept over the border yet) are all powered only when the ignition is on.

David - good tip about the UHF. Looks like I'll follow and have it connected to aux. My preferred choice at the mo is the GME XRS330C

Scott - thanks for the link. I will probably go with a BlackVue, too.
I enjoy following your build thread. I'm also going to put that switchable voltmeter in the back.

Rod - very neat with that Baintech. I like BMKal's take on it.
BMKal - the radar detector I had was fitted by the previous owner and of the now very-expensive-if-you-get-caught jamming type.
I have no need for it, even as a detector, so I pulled it out.

The question remains ...
What gauge wire should I run back from the ABG-25 for the main power lead for all of these?

I'll stick my neck out here and say 8B&S. That's max rated at ~60A at 30 degrees (rating varies a bit by manufacturer) which should be way more than you'll need for what you've described and is not too thick to run through the vehicle.

David

I have a dash mounted Narva double USB plug connected back to the first battery side of the Traxide-no problems. Very useful to recharge a mobile overnight while the ignition is off.