Thread: 08 D3 TDV6 P117D-00

Originally Posted by LRD414

Can the solenoid be replaced by itself?

You'd think, right?

Apparently someone has found a cross-match for the pressure regulator solenoid, but I've not yet found anyone talking about the VCV. If I end up replacing the pump I plan to tear down the original to see if I can save some other poor sod the same fate in future.

Originally Posted by BradC

Shes willing to forego the bells, whistles and extra comfort for a reliable vehicle, so one of the options being discussed is replacing the D3 with a Prado. Heck, right now she'd rather drive my 30 year old Volvo.

Anyone have any recommendations for a good Indie North of the river in Perth I can talk to for some other options and/or a second opinion?

My own personal opinion would be to drive the extra and go south of the river to Rovertech, there is not much they havent seen or done on Land Rovers...

I know plenty of other workshops and dealers that see Rovertech for help with problems.

Originally Posted by LRD414

Can the solenoid be replaced by itself?

Scott

No, unlike other solenoids on high pressure pumps that simply bolt on, its crimped on as part of the housing. I have been meaning to see if I can remove one off an old engine..... at some point in time...

Also just to add.....

*Although its missing some other codes I'd expect for what I have listed below, dont take this as a hard and fast rule.
*Clean MAP sensor (its hollow in the centre with a probe, use a tooth brush/brake clean).
*Change fuel filter.
*Check in tank pump pressure (there is a bleed valve on top of engine that a gauge can be connected to, I think from memory its about 6psi).
*When that fails, change out rail pressure sensor (its on the passenger side front of rail, easy to change)
*NOTE if you have a Ford territory engine you need to replace with a Ford one, as while both sensors work, they are physically different, same with the fuel rail.

*I do more of the above than I replace high pressure pumps and well cheaper.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

My own personal opinion would be to drive the extra and go south of the river to Rovertech, there is not much they havent seen or done on Land Rovers...

I know plenty of other workshops and dealers that see Rovertech for help with problems.

Me for one. Kevin is a great fellow with lots of highly experienced blokes working there.

Jc

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Also just to add.....

*Although its missing some other codes I'd expect for what I have listed below, dont take this as a hard and fast rule.
*Clean MAP sensor (its hollow in the centre with a probe, use a tooth brush/brake clean).
*Change fuel filter.
*Check in tank pump pressure (there is a bleed valve on top of engine that a gauge can be connected to, I think from memory its about 6psi).
*When that fails, change out rail pressure sensor (its on the passenger side front of rail, easy to change)
*NOTE if you have a Ford territory engine you need to replace with a Ford one, as while both sensors work, they are physically different, same with the fuel rail.

*I do more of the above than I replace high pressure pumps and well cheaper.

I did the MAP sensor with before and after logs on the IIDTool. It was coked up terribly, but a good clean didn't change the readings. The readings certainly look plausible against rpm/load/turbo actuator position.

I checked the in-tank for flow and pressure at the schrader and it's close enough to spec. The current consumption for the in-tank was in the ballpark also.
The fuel filter is only ~10K old, but I'll change that out when I have the chance anyway. The pressure/flow check is down-stream of the filter in any case and there was plenty.

The fact that the *only* code it was throwing was saying "I'm trying really hard to open the volume valve and get some more fuel through and I'm maxed out" seems to point the finger, but I'll have to wait now until it does it again to get some actual logs of what is going on.

I do get a (singular) low rail pressure code if I drive it with the fuse out for the in-tank pump (which I suppose you'd see with a duff in-tank or a blocked filter). Oddly enough I was logging the valve positions and pressures and I didn't see anything particularly out of the ordinary, so the HPFP must be sucking like a vacuum. I tried this 3 times and got the same single code all 3. I wasn't clever enough to write it down.

One thing I did notice was the negative terminal on the battery was sitting in a huge pile of corrosion, so I took that out and gave it a clean. I think someone has had a good go at it previously as the seal between the battery post and the housing appears damaged as I can rotate the post (slightly) by hand. Have to put a new battery on the "next time I'm in there" list. The terminals were tight though and I had a meter on the car while I was reproducing the fault and didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

Having a look behind the battery I see the cover for the ECU's has all the retaining clips snapped off and it's floating in the breeze.

Every time I look at this thing I find more workmanship issues.

I really do appreciate all the pointers and ideas.

Ugh. So a few relatively trouble free (for a Landrover anyway) months on we get a P2290 (Injector control pressure too low) last night and it drops to the stops. Get off the freeway and reboot and it's ok until this morning when it does the same thing but with a P0087 (Fuel rail pressure too low). In both cases, aside from cascading failures in other sub-systems, they were the *only* engine faults logged.

The wife has now told me I have 3 potential options. I can sell it, set fire to it or use it to replace my car (A reliable Volvo 740 which I love dearly and is affectionately known as the "landrover rescue vehicle") as being the umpteenth time it has dropped its guts in the middle of the freeway she no longer has any faith in it. I don't want to part with it as I appear to have some form of stockholm syndrome but repeated pleas of "But sweetie, it's the pinnacle of British motoring engineering" fall on deaf ears. I can't say I blame her to be fair. The real problem is forensic fire investigators are pretty damned good.

There is a reason I call it "The Antichrist", and I'm sure the only reason it hasn't winched itself up a tree is it doesn't have a winch.

So, can anyone point me to a source for an adapter for a fuel pressure gauge for the schraeder valve? I have a good gauge, and a home-brew adapter that leaks (a modified tyre chuck). I'd like one I can actually screw on and get a good seal with to test in-motion.

I do appear to currently have a workaround, which is to plug the IID tool in and get the iPad logging data. As long as I'm watching it, it won't fault*. I drove 250km this afternoon doing laps of Perth trying to get it to fault while being watched. When you say "I'm going for a quick drive" and 90 minutes later get a phone call asking where you are, and you casually respond you are a hundred k's from home in the middle of a National Park and then think about what you are doing, it's a wakeup call. Thus her theory of "well if it won't play up for you and you don't want to sell it, then *you* drive the sodding thing! I want a Kia with a 7 year warranty". Again, can't say I blame her.

I've ordered a new genuine LR fuel filter. I figure I'll start there and either end up with the LPFP or HPFP. My last test of the LPFP in both pressure and current looked ok, but that was in May when it was actually behaving itself and the problem was a stuck valve in the HPFP (that hasn't misbehaved since and most certainly didn't result in this fault). I can't be arsed looking any further now until I get a proper adapter for the fuel pressure port, thus my question.

* In my previous life as an electronics tech I carried an envelope full of passport photos. When I came across a particularly recalcitrant bit of equipment that refused to misbehave while I was watching it, I used to stick one of the photos under the lid so it always knew I was watching it.

bwhahahha sounds like what we used to do in the RAAF with the dreaded yellow bricks and PRC-25/77 PLL alignment.

EE435 reads ,,,,,, NFF!!