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Thread: Changed the Transmission oils, colour compare pics.

  1. #1
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    Changed the Transmission oils, colour compare pics.

    My 3.0l D4 has travelled 63k Km from new in just over 2 years, mostly highway & more than half the distance towing a 2.7 ton ish caravan. I have serviced the engine every 12k Km with an initial oil change at 7k Km. This past weekend, my son & I changed the transmission oils: both diffs, transfer case & gearbox. Acknowledgements to 'Robbie's Guide To ZF8 Auto Transmission Oil Change' originally from a UK forum I believe. MR Automotive in Redcliffe supplied the oils.

    I was keen to see for myself what the condition of the oils were after 63k Km so that I could assess whether I needed to change sooner or later in the future.

    2 clear, graduated 5L jugs were purchased from Bunnings so that I could compare the oils, old & new & to make sure that the quantities re-filled were at least equivalent to the quantities drained & to compare the colours. Using the GAP tool, I put in the maximum suspension offset I could & then set the ride height to off road for maximum clearance under the vehicle. Oil re-filling was by means of a Toledo Fluid Change Syringe 1.5Ltr: https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/t...ltr/p/A9625545


    Starting with the rear E-Diff which uses a special oil in an OEM box containing a Castrol bottle. Cost $98.00/L. The magnetic drain plug had a mound of very fine metal powder stuck to the magnet.

    20180609_121545.jpg

    Next came the transfer case with OEM part No. oil, Cost $65.00/L: No magnetic drain plug.

    20180609_130115.jpg

    Then the one I was most concerned about, the 8 speed gearbox. Cost $59.50/L. Surprisingly, considering the towing I have done, the oil still had a green tinge to it & looked ok. This must have something to do with the way the torque converter locks as soon as the vehicle is moving. This was a partial change as you cannot get the entire contents of the gearbox out of the sump because the rest of the system is still primed with oil. I got 3.5L out & put a little more back after following Robbie's guide.

    20180609_144615.jpg

    Lastly, the front diff: Cost $16.00/L. Again, the magnetic drain plug had a mound of very fine metal powder stuck to the magnet like the rear diff.

    20180609_161924.jpg

    In summary, this is not a hard job & does not need any special tools except maybe the oil syringe which I purchased from Repco. My vehicle is a long term keeper unless the new Defender is special, so changing oils regularly is important for my peace of mind.
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

  2. #2
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    Smell is also a good indicator - I just changed by 6 speed fluid at 150,000km and it was the colour of tea but clear not cloudy and had no noticeable smell so was still in good condition.

    When I first changed the front diff oil it absolutely stank but after that first change has been good.

    Garry
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milton477 View Post
    My 3.0l D4 has travelled 63k Km from new in just over 2 years, mostly highway & more than half the distance towing a 2.7 ton ish caravan. I have serviced the engine every 12k Km with an initial oil change at 7k Km. This past weekend, my son & I changed the transmission oils: both diffs, transfer case & gearbox. Acknowledgements to 'Robbie's Guide To ZF8 Auto Transmission Oil Change' originally from a UK forum I believe. MR Automotive in Redcliffe supplied the oils.

    I was keen to see for myself what the condition of the oils were after 63k Km so that I could assess whether I needed to change sooner or later in the future.

    2 clear, graduated 5L jugs were purchased from Bunnings so that I could compare the oils, old & new & to make sure that the quantities re-filled were at least equivalent to the quantities drained & to compare the colours. Using the GAP tool, I put in the maximum suspension offset I could & then set the ride height to off road for maximum clearance under the vehicle. Oil re-filling was by means of a Toledo Fluid Change Syringe 1.5Ltr: Toledo Fluid Change Syringe 1.5Ltr | TOLEDO | BRANDS | Repco Australia


    Starting with the rear E-Diff which uses a special oil in an OEM box containing a Castrol bottle. Cost $98.00/L. The magnetic drain plug had a mound of very fine metal powder stuck to the magnet.

    20180609_121545.jpg

    Next came the transfer case with OEM part No. oil, Cost $65.00/L: No magnetic drain plug.

    20180609_130115.jpg

    Then the one I was most concerned about, the 8 speed gearbox. Cost $59.50/L. Surprisingly, considering the towing I have done, the oil still had a green tinge to it & looked ok. This must have something to do with the way the torque converter locks as soon as the vehicle is moving. This was a partial change as you cannot get the entire contents of the gearbox out of the sump because the rest of the system is still primed with oil. I got 3.5L out & put a little more back after following Robbie's guide.

    20180609_144615.jpg

    Lastly, the front diff: Cost $16.00/L. Again, the magnetic drain plug had a mound of very fine metal powder stuck to the magnet like the rear diff.

    20180609_161924.jpg

    In summary, this is not a hard job & does not need any special tools except maybe the oil syringe which I purchased from Repco. My vehicle is a long term keeper unless the new Defender is special, so changing oils regularly is important for my peace of mind.
    Nothing like a visual aid for educational purposes, I often will show a customer the sample of used auto transmission fluid on their D3, D4, RRS.
    Good change out interval, near as damit what I recommend, 50K intervals for all driveline.
    Good thread for others to look at.
    Regards
    Daz


  4. #4
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    I'm thinking the same way Daz as I do a bit of towing but it comes in long trips which must really heat the oil up. Maybe even at the 40K service coming up.
    I do really like clean oil in my vehicles.
    AlanH.

  5. #5
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    black oil

    Agree with early oil changes.
    I think the reason for black, smelly diff oil is that sulphur is added as a lubricant for the hypoid gears. It turns black when doing it's job.

    cheers
    fred

  6. #6
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    old transmission fluid from my 6HP26 from the D3 that I serviced a few weeks back.

    oriignal on left and after first flush on right. Reddish tinge is from the Dr tranny that had been added on previous change.
    All I up I did 3 flushes. Went through about 18L of LG6.


    trans fluid.jpg

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterOZ View Post
    old transmission fluid from my 6HP26 from the D3 that I serviced a few weeks back.

    oriignal on left and after first flush on right. Reddish tinge is from the Dr tranny that had been added on previous change.
    All I up I did 3 flushes. Went through about 18L of LG6.


    trans fluid.jpg
    Hang on, I can see a problem.
    That oil is past it's use by date - it's sure to be an issue
    2012 L320 Range Rover Sport Fuji White
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    Nothing like a visual aid for educational purposes, I often will show a customer the sample of used auto transmission fluid on their D3, D4, RRS.
    Good change out interval, near as damit what I recommend, 50K intervals for all driveline.
    Good thread for others to look at.

    Milton 477 - Apologies for high-jacking this informative thread, but question for Dazza (and informed others) is 50K transmission oil changes your recommendation for across most or all early and later versions of the marque (accepting that later vehicles do use some special oils for various parts)?
    Last edited by gavinwibrow; 30th September 2018 at 11:22 AM. Reason: clarify
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
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  9. #9
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    A question. The torque converter was slipping on the D3. Oil change and Dr. Tranny has fixed it for the moment. But a new torque converter and re-build (might as well do it at the same time) is on the horizon. So looking at servicing the re-built transmission.

    Considering that you are starting with a complete fill of new oil. What do you think is best? Normal oil change more often? Or a mega flush less often?


    Thanks
    Sean
    MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussie Jeepster View Post
    Hang on, I can see a problem.
    That oil is past it's use by date - it's sure to be an issue
    naw its all good, its the lite version

    not sure it will be good for my coffee though...

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