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Thread: D3 2.7 V6 alternator replacement.

  1. #1
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    D3 2.7 V6 alternator replacement.

    Hi Guys,

    Im just wondering how much people have paid to have the alternator replaced and which brand is the best option to go with, Ive had a vast difference in price. I'm based in Perth.
    Cheers in advanced
    Brendan

  2. #2
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    There is one on gumtree in Perth at the moment. It may fit your 2.7l.

  3. #3
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    The genuine Denso should range in price between $550 to $1100 in Australia and 2/3 the price from the UK. Ashdown Ingram sell a OEX knockoff (made in Taiwan) for about $550 - is convenient as they usually carry stock and is a quality item.

    The LR time to change the alternator is 45mins but I took about 90 mins but you will need to buy the fan tool from a tool shop for about $30.

    garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
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    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    There is one on gumtree in Perth at the moment. It may fit your 2.7l.
    It's for the 3litre unfortunately, but thank you

  5. #5
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    D3 2.7 V6 alternator replacement.

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    The genuine Denso should range in price between $550 to $1100 in Australia and 2/3 the price from the UK. Ashdown Ingram sell a OEX knockoff (made in Taiwan) for about $550 - is convenient as they usually carry stock and is a quality item.

    The LR time to change the alternator is 45mins but I took about 90 mins but you will need to buy the fan tool from a tool shop for about $30.

    garry
    Not quite. There are a variety of ways to hold the fan hub using objects in your tool box. A long socket extension and socket between one of the fan clutch bolt heads to something on the engine. Just know that it has reversed thread and undoes in the opposite way. A solid tap with a big spanner on fan once you have braked the hub should be all it needs.

    There is a good how-to on Disco3.co.uk and had also been referenced here in another thread. A ratchet spanner for the alternator bolts probably makes the biggest difference. I did without and it just makes it a lot slower.

    P.S. I have my original 160k km alternator still working perfectly in a box in metro Perth free to a good home if it helps anyone.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Not quite. There are a variety of ways to hold the fan hub using objects in your tool box. A long socket extension and socket between one of the fan clutch bolt heads to something on the engine. Just know that it has reversed thread and undoes in the opposite way. A solid tap with a big spanner on fan once you have braked the hub should be all it needs.
    Yes there are a variety of ways - but easiest is to get the spanner - cheap and available at any decent tool store. I tried the method you described and it did not work - the little bolts just undid so I had to borrow a car and then go and get the spanner half way through the job - wasting time doing the job.

    When you assemble the bits you need to do the job just buy the spanner - also fits a number of other LR engines - also used it on my 4.6 fan.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
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    I tried a couple of other brands, they promptly failed down the track.
    I only use and keep in stock the Denso for both D3 and D4.
    Quite often if the alternator fails dont be surprised if the battery fails not so long after, and also vise versa.
    Regards
    Daz


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    I tried a couple of other brands, they promptly failed down the track.
    I only use and keep in stock the Denso for both D3 and D4.
    Quite often if the alternator fails dont be surprised if the battery fails not so long after, and also vise versa.
    I had the same problem 2 weeks after the alternator died so did the battery
    So undo the nut i made a brace bit of flat on a length of rod that bolted onto the pulley and locked so the nut would come off.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    I tried a couple of other brands, they promptly failed down the track.
    I only use and keep in stock the Denso for both D3 and D4.
    Quite often if the alternator fails dont be surprised if the battery fails not so long after, and also vise versa.
    Certainly not worth the pain, Denso is my choice too...
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  10. #10
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    Hub Tool home made

    I attach a couple of pics for a quick fix (crude) hub tool I made because I can't just go down road and buy one.
    I used a bit of 3-4mm flat bar with a cut out (see red lines, welded additional metal after cut out), and then welded a couple of tags along edge to make the attached shape.
    Just so it would lock over the nuts on hub while I "cracked" the fan off.
    I'm a bit slow, so took about an hour to make.
    I made up a cardboard template first and used that as a guide for my pattern.
    Tool needs a bit of a bend in it to be able to slide in easily and lock on two nuts to hold.
    Was able to change out a water pump on roadside using the "tool", so good to have one in the toolbox when travelling.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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