I bought a torque wrench

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Originally Posted by inertia8

I have deflecting beam type torque wrenches, Warren & Brown brand and acquired both a 1/2" and 3/8" second hand for around $100each and when I check them they were within a couple of nm when tested against some Norbar wrenches that a friend lent me. Saves worrying about resetting it to zero or dropping to some extend, however you must remember to reset signal pipper/clicker after each use.

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Like these?

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxN...aI9vu/$_75.JPG

If so i used to own one of those and loved the thing. Think i loaned that to a mate and never got it back.

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

It does not put it to rest for me hahahahaa.

I have asked the same questions several times here without reply.

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Glad it hasn't cos it's becoming quite interesting. I was hoping a wheel guru would get on board!
My thoughts are the LR steel wheel nuts are designed to suit LR steel wheels, I have LR nuts but sunrasia rims so the taper is probably different to the nut. So in theory shouldn't you buy new nuts to suit the wheels?
Also I would not go passed the correct torque setting with different wheels because of the chance of deforming the rotors. I think that's more so what the torque setting for
I know I didn't answer your question lol just elaborating it

Cheers Jim

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Originally Posted by LRJim

So in theory shouldn't you buy new nuts to suit the wheels?
Cheers Jim

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When i purchased my 33s i had to change the wheel nuts because the taper was different on the dynamic rims. Ordered them with the wheels but tyre place forgot. Had to wait 2 days for them from Dynamic.
If regular nuts are used they bite on the edge of the taper and will never seat properly. Might even ruin the rims after time.
I recall sunrasias being similar to LR but dont quote me on that. Dynamic however are quite different thus i had no choice. All that said the tyre place was wanting to use the standard nuts!!!!

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

Like these?

https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxN...aI9vu/$_75.JPG

If so i used to own one of those and loved the thing. Think i loaned that to a mate and never got it back.

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Mine are both the "dual signal" type.

Like these:Attachment 142749

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Originally Posted by DAMINK

It does not put it to rest for me hahahahaa.

I have asked the same questions several times here without reply.

If the taper on the rims is different ie Dynamic rims will it require a different setting given the taper would increase the bite zone of the nut. Beyond the Alloy/Steel settings described above?

Also do people calibrate there torque wrenches as this is vital to getting torque correct. Just leaving it for one night not reset to 0 can blow out the calibration. I know i have done it several times.

I will confess i have NEVER calibrated a torque wrench.

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I think maybe you misunderstand why you torque a nut. Torquing a nut applies an axial load to the bolt/stud causing it to stretch. This stretch then applies a clamping force to the mating surfaces of the two components being bolted together - in this case the wheel and the hub, or the head and the block. The area under the nut is essentially irrelevant, unless it is small enough so that plastic deformation can occur preventing the bolt stretching.

Not enough torque and the connection can work loose, or in the case of a head bolt it won’t seal in the pressure. Too much torque and the tension on the bolt can stretch it beyond its yield point.

That’s why torquing a bolt correctly is important.

Cheers,
Jon

I read that LR dropped the torque setting on the hub nut from 340Nm to 230Nm as bearings were failing prematurely.

If I’m getting 250Nm+ on my lug nuts I have no idea what the hub nut is at as I really leaned on that after installing a front hub assembly.

That ones coming off and torqued to 230Nm.

Never used a torque wrench to do wheel nuts and never had one come off or snapped a stud yet. Still time though I guess... [emoji16]

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Never used a torque wrench to do wheel nuts and never had one come off or snapped a stud yet. Still time though I guess... [emoji16]

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Just because you’re not using a torque wrench doesn’t mean you’re not torquing the nuts up correctly - at least within acceptable limits.

Wheel nut torque tends to be about what an average person can apply with a wheel brace - at least in my experience.

Cheers,
Jon

I contacted the supplier of my rims today.
Asked them if its required for a Land Rover Discovery 1 to change the wheel nuts with a purchase of there rims.
Here is there reply.

"Hi Andrew,

Thank you for your enquiry.

Yes, on Land Rovers – wheel nuts are required when going from factory wheels to aftermarket fitments.

The reason for this is because, factory wheels have a 45 Degree Taper on Land rovers. Aftermarket wheels (including Dynamics) have a 60 Degree Taper.

This is not the case for many other cars (like Ranger/Triton/Colorado etc.)

If you have a Defender or Disco series 1 – 16x1.5 Nuts needed
If you have a Disco Series 2, 3, 4 or 5 – 14x1.5 nuts needed

Kind Regards"

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Originally Posted by jon3950

I think maybe you misunderstand why you torque a nut. Torquing a nut applies an axial load to the bolt/stud causing it to stretch. This stretch then applies a clamping force to the mating surfaces of the two components being bolted together - in this case the wheel and the hub, or the head and the block. The area under the nut is essentially irrelevant, unless it is small enough so that plastic deformation can occur preventing the bolt stretching.

Not enough torque and the connection can work loose, or in the case of a head bolt it won’t seal in the pressure. Too much torque and the tension on the bolt can stretch it beyond its yield point.

That’s why torquing a bolt correctly is important.

Cheers,
Jon

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So your saying the mating surfaces dont play a part in torque? The resistance you get from the mating surfaces specifically?