Does that mod preclude you from switching back to H7 halogens, or were you just creating extra clearance for the non-standard LEDs?
Hi Guys,
After deliberating for the past few months over the merits of upgrading my Halogen headlights to Factory HID's, but just don't do the amount of night driving that justify the $1k plus price tag. So after some investigation into upgrading the H7 low beams to LED, i finally bit the bullet today and installed them. A word of advice though, this is a delicate and precise job, however not beyond most people. The upgrade also doesn't require any CCF changes.
This is the kit i purchased for $149 from AutoBarn
This is the step drill bit i used, remember slow, delicate use
This is the alloy collar that both H7 bulbs mount into, complete with the converter that i fixed inside the headlight Assy
Using the step drill bit, SLOWLY remove 2 of the lugs that fasten to the reflector. The third lug is recessed more and it also is the bottom guide when re-installing. Removing these 2 lugs, enables enough room to install the new LED bulb, which is slightly bigger than a Halogen equivalent. Once the lugs have been trimmed, GENTLY remove the hub
Here is the reflector, after removing the alloy bulb hub, notice the recessed lug, which acts a as guide to ensure the hub and bulb install in the correct alignment
Bulb installed, complete with heatsink, which is removable for ease of installation
This is the new low beam down my driveway, streets ahead of the Halogen bulbs
A shot of the lights against my garage door, showing the cut line.
This one with High beam, notice how yellow the high beam in in comparison
After a drive around suburban streets, the difference is outstanding, comparable to my wife's new 320i with factory LED's and all for $149 plus about 2 hours of my time.
If anyone wants to do this themselves, don't hesitate to contact me for help.
cheers
Geoff
D4 TDV6 MY13 White - GONE
Does that mod preclude you from switching back to H7 halogens, or were you just creating extra clearance for the non-standard LEDs?
Just a bit of a heads up(coz more info I think is always good).
I've been a convert to well designed LED headlight conversions myself since I got the Philips for my D1(H4's).
Dad has got a small Peugeot now, and asked me to look into a set for his too(got some H4's for his Ford Exploder a while back too).
So started looking into options for his lil Pug.
Noted that the Philips Ultinons in H7 have an adapter to suit the various fitment bases if that makes any difference.
The other bit that makes them interesting is that they use a metal ribbon for a heatsink(ie. flexible) so fitting is even easier than it is for the solid heatsink design types.
Not that the fitment was hard in any way tho.
Philips Ultinon H7 LED
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
How do these compare to the Bi-xenons? Mine have the adaptive cornering function as well, so nervous about doing any cutting to those.
I would not mind converting the High beams to LEDs, which believe are Halogen as well as the fog lights.
Not sure the globe H type for those.
Judging from your packaging box you went with the Model 4000 High Performance 6200k variant. The website < LED Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit > for them states "the kit includes an externally mounted LED driver module." how large is this? Where did you put it? I can't see any pictures on their website of what the external LED driver module actually is but I assume it goes inline between the vehicles wiring loom at the new globes wiring connection.
I note that for the Model 3600 Halogen Replacement the website states "the LED driver unit is incorporated inside the heatsink for easy installation." which might be a better option for some for a more compact installation. This model does drop the lumens per bulb down to 1,800 (200 less) and is rated as only 150% brighter than halogen (compared to 180%) but has lower power draw of 18w (compared to 25w).
EDIT: just found this which is likely it:
[img]j.w.speaker-h7-led-headlight-conversion-kit-detail-frankies.jpg[/img]
Disappointingly their website doesn't provide the dimensions of the globes, particularly of that which sticks out including the heat sink, so that one can measure to determine if it will fit into your light housing or not.
I note that their website does state "Not approved for ADR, ECE or DOT" when you look at the full specifications for the High Performance 4000k or 6200k or the Halogen Replacement 6200k model globes < http://www.invisionsales.com/lighting/speaker-forward/led-headlight-kit-overview >.
Out of genuine interest and curiosity, since converting, have you had someone else drive the car while your in another so you can check what it's like for other road users? I ask as I regularly experience the effects horrible retro light conversions (not necessarily LEDs, but HID, etc.) that others have done for their own benefit at the cost of their fellow road users - our state road authority is not very vigilant so they continue to get away with it. With the LED conversion into a light housing that was designed for halogen lights is the light spread still the same as acceptable to other road users (I've found the HID retro conversions rarely seem to be)?
If not, maybe the solution is rather to convert the high beams only over to LED so when on low beam it's still halogen light around others to not bedazzle them while high beams are usually used when away from others.
Pricewise the kit seems pretty acceptable - good quality extra vision globes (e.g. Plus 20) from Narva, Orasim, Philips, etc. would be similarly priced at full retail. LEDs probably last longer too.
I hate my Halogens. My last D4 SE had xenon .... I didn't realize that xenon was not standard because they look identical from the outside :-(. The halogens are like candles.
What about generated heat affecting the lens? .... I've heard they are prone to melting.
If LEDs are only drawing 25W when halogens are 55W then unless LEDs produce less light than halogens, the heat generated will proportionally less and further reduced as the level of generated light increases.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
+1.
Basically no heat.
Front lens is stone cold on most days, and ever so slightly warm on hot days, after a run. I assume that the very slight heat is really only thermal conductivity from ambient air and being near the radiator.
Rear heatisnk was one thing I was more interested in, as I have the cables routed over and around and then to the driver box, but again. Very slightly luke warm is the hottest I've ever felt by hand at the bulky end of the heatsink.
I didn't think it was worth pointing the IR temp gun at it, as it felt ~20-ish degrees or so.
I guess that was one aspect of the halogens that I kind'a miss .. warming up frozen fingers a little bit!![]()
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
I'm sorry Graeme, can you elaborate please?
Just because a system, be it light, heat or sound, consumes 55w of power, does not necessarily equate to a proportionate performance, or heat output at the sharp end … the performance end.
The back end of the electronics can suck up a lot of power and not produce a proportionate outcome at the performance end. It's a bit like a Toyota traction control system LOL!!!
The question was …. will the front end performance melt the lens.
"the heat generated will proportionally less and further reduced as the level of generated light increases.[/QUOTE]" I'm lost on this ….. the brighter the light, the cooler it gets?
Anyway …. I think the OP answered the question …. it's cool :-)
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks