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Thread: D3 Post Cape York Wear and Tear

  1. #1
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    D3 Post Cape York Wear and Tear

    After returning from our trip to Cape York, I am starting to assess the wear, tear and damage to the Disco.

    To be honest I am pretty happy with the disco, no major problems and only a few niggly issues to sort.
    Of note - through all the water crossings, no water entered the cab - yay!
    Over the next few weeks, I'll service it and treat it to new oils and fluids.

    1. Upper control arm bushes. These were well worn prior, but I decided to wait until after the trip to replace. They now need replacing.
    2. Track Rod/Rod End. The LHS front wheel has a fair bit of LR movement. with the wheel off I think it's a track rod or track rod end.
    3. Exhaust rattle? I started to hear a metal on metal rattle at idle. It was the catalytic converter(I think that's the bit?) hitting the aluminium transmission protection plate. I removed the plate and could not feel any excessive movement so I put it down to exhaust mounts or the flex coupling being stretched a bit. I'll space out or bend the plate for additional clearance. I note the plastic trans cover has a moulded section for the cat.
    4. Engine leaks/weeps. I noticed these when cleaning the engine but no clue what's causing them yet. Any suggestions?
    5. Air intake dust. Even though I ran a snorkel with uni filter, I noted a thin layer of really fine dust on the intake side of the filter and pipage. The MAF sensor was quite caked in it. I'm not sure how to best clean the MAF as they are best cleaned hot, but will cool before I dissemble it!

    Overall, no complaints. A fine chariot.
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  2. #2
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    Just use a MAF cleaner. They’re designed specifically for that purpose. I’ve not heard about cleaning them hot?
    As for dust in there, I’d be checking things out as it shouldn’t happen. I’ve never had the slightest dust in mine
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
    Ean Austral Guest
    Pics 1,2 & 5 look to be the O'ring which sits on the outside of the Y piece that goes into the inlet manifold ,or, it could be a fuel leak on that hose , but I would think if it was fuel you would know it.

    That Y piece does come out , and it could be as simple changing the O.ring but I have no idea on what size they are. It certainly looks like the black crud that bake onto the inside of the Y piece from the EGR , but you have yours blanked , so it could even be the O ring on the EGR blank. They are just held in with 2 x torx screws so would be easy to remove and check if its damaged.

    Cheers Ean

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Just use a MAF cleaner. They’re designed specifically for that purpose. I’ve not heard about cleaning them hot?
    As for dust in there, I’d be checking things out as it shouldn’t happen. I’ve never had the slightest dust in mine
    The tin of MAF cleaner says to spray it on the sensor wires whilst hot. The previous brand I used did as well. In my TD5 it's possible to access the sensor with the engine running by pulling the intake pipe. Not that simple in a TDV6. Perhaps it just needs the ignition on. I'll sus that out. The dust surprised me as well. I can only assume that the filter had a slight blow through although it was most prevalent around the join where the filter housing meets the intake. Just beside the MAF. There doesn't seem to be an oring. Just a friction fit.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    The tin of MAF cleaner says to spray it on the sensor wires whilst hot. The previous brand I used did as well. In my TD5 it's possible to access the sensor with the engine running by pulling the intake pipe. Not that simple in a TDV6. Perhaps it just needs the ignition on. I'll sus that out. The dust surprised me as well. I can only assume that the filter had a slight blow through although it was most prevalent around the join where the filter housing meets the intake. Just beside the MAF. There doesn't seem to be an oring. Just a friction fit.
    There is a small hose that attaches to the air box (on mine at least) and at one stage it had come off might be worth a check as well.

    Your can simply take the cover off the air box and run the engine with it open and spray it briefly (in a clean air environment obviously if you care to do it whilst ‘hot’. It won’t matter for 30 seconds assuming you’re not doing it in a sandstorm D3 Post Cape York Wear and Tear
    After all, from what you’ve said, the engine has had far more dirt ingested already compared to what 30 more seconds will see in a garage
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    After returning from our trip to Cape York, I am starting to assess the wear, tear and damage to the Disco.

    To be honest I am pretty happy with the disco, no major problems and only a few niggly issues to sort.
    Of note - through all the water crossings, no water entered the cab - yay!
    Over the next few weeks, I'll service it and treat it to new oils and fluids.

    1. Upper control arm bushes. These were well worn prior, but I decided to wait until after the trip to replace. They now need replacing.
    2. Track Rod/Rod End. The LHS front wheel has a fair bit of LR movement. with the wheel off I think it's a track rod or track rod end.
    3. Exhaust rattle? I started to hear a metal on metal rattle at idle. It was the catalytic converter(I think that's the bit?) hitting the aluminium transmission protection plate. I removed the plate and could not feel any excessive movement so I put it down to exhaust mounts or the flex coupling being stretched a bit. I'll space out or bend the plate for additional clearance. I note the plastic trans cover has a moulded section for the cat.
    4. Engine leaks/weeps. I noticed these when cleaning the engine but no clue what's causing them yet. Any suggestions?
    5. Air intake dust. Even though I ran a snorkel with uni filter, I noted a thin layer of really fine dust on the intake side of the filter and pipage. The MAF sensor was quite caked in it. I'm not sure how to best clean the MAF as they are best cleaned hot, but will cool before I dissemble it!

    Overall, no complaints. A fine chariot.
    Hi Mate,

    This rattle you are getting, was it whilst idling in drive or reverse but not there when in park or neutral?

    My car has developed a metal sounding rattle/vibration over the last few months and it only appears to happen when in gear. I'm not sure if it's related to the gearbox per se, I think a resonance is getting created when the car is under load …. as in, in gear but with brakes on completely or partially. It gets slightly worse if I turn the steering wheel which lends me to the idea that it's created by loading. If I'm in neutral and turn the steering wheel, there is no noise.

    I haven't had a chance to get under and look yet as I've recently had an op and am only now getting mobile. Besides, it would mean trusting my wife to keep the car in gear with the brakes on with me under the car …. LOL!!!

    Cheers,

    Kev.

  7. #7
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    The tin of MAF cleaner says to spray it on the sensor wires whilst hot. The previous brand I used did as well. In my TD5 it's possible to access the sensor with the engine running by pulling the intake pipe. Not that simple in a TDV6. Perhaps it just needs the ignition on. I'll sus that out. The dust surprised me as well. I can only assume that the filter had a slight blow through although it was most prevalent around the join where the filter housing meets the intake. Just beside the MAF. There doesn't seem to be an oring. Just a friction fit.
    Would assume it means clean the MAF when the car has been driven or at the least warmed up, not after the car has sat in the carport over night. The car doesnt need to be running . Similar to when you do an oil change .

    Cheers Ean

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