Thread: Battery failure #2 grrr

Originally Posted by CraigE

AGM is just a form of battery, not wet cell flooded, but still lead acid. While the TD5 is a calcium an AGM is also suitable for use. I find my AGM holds charge far better than the calcium batteries I have used in the past. The other thing is with a dual battery system often different types of batteries just dont like being used together eg a Calcium starting and AGM second.

Hi Craig and if you had two dissimilar batteries wired in parallel and you were using a DC/DC device. Then in this situation, unless the DC/DC device was set up correctly, you could easily have problems charging one or both batteries.


This thread has been about charging batteries with an alternator, and as such, there are no problems caused when charging dissimilar battery types, wired in parallel.


This myth that you can not charge dissimilar battery types with an alternator, is regularly put out by DC/DC device sellers, but it is nothing more than an advertising myth to try to makeout alternators can not charge batteries better than a DC/DC device.


An alternator is a CONSTANT voltage charging device and as such, will by it’s very nature, charge each battery at that battery’s optimum charge rate.


Again, this means there are no problems caused when you have dissimilar batteries wired in parallel and being charged by an alternator.


As to AGMs charging faster and holding their charge longer than Calcium/Calcium batteries. Yes this is so, but when charging with an alternator, this can be a major advantage, and something my isolators exploit.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Look again - that is not the correct battery. You need something like a MF88H 900CCA Supercharge Battery - under $300 not under $200.

Ok I just used their battery selector based on my vehicle on their website and the proposed battery was what I've listed. I didn't really feel like trawling through their website to find something suitable. Thanks for your input

David

Clearly the selector is wrong as it list of lower spec battery than is required - I gave you the correct battery part number so no searching required - but hey its your money.

Originally Posted by garrycol

Clearly the selector is wrong as it list of lower spec battery than is required - I gave you the correct battery part number so no searching required - but hey its your money.

Thanks Garry, sorry - I didn't mean my reply to sound so sharp. Thanks for the guidance on the correct battery. Money already spent unfortunately. David

I think i would fit a temporary voltmeter direct to the battery and see what voltage readings you are get.
I would also fit a plug in volt meter to your cigarette lighter or equivalent and see if the readings match. If the voltage readings match a plug in voltmeter will let you know what is voltage is occurring and when.
My mother had a small Toyota that did 4500 Km's in 7 years and had endless battery problems until a plug for a small solar panel was fitted , she would then plug the car in after driving and battery life increased 5 fold.
Your could put a flexible solar panel on the bonnet like the Volt has and hard wire it in, it would be better than flat batteries all the time.
Ian
Bittern

Originally Posted by garrycol

Clearly the selector is wrong as it list of lower spec battery than is required - I gave you the correct battery part number so no searching required - but hey its your money.

For the sake of numbers, i also have the MF88H, which has been going strong for approx 2 years with no signs of deterioration at all.

Originally Posted by scarry

How to jump start the vehicle is written in the owners manual.

Mine also gets short trips,I charge it overnight with a Cteck,at least twice in a month,battery replaced under warranty is now well over 4 yrs old.

I also isolate the SC80 relay most of the time as it continually draws current,and charge the auxillery battery separately at times.I have the relay on when camping or doing long runs.

I find charging the batteries separately seems to do a better job,than together,with the Cteck.

Most modern vehicles particularly European vehicles seem to be hard on batteries.

I have the same experience with the older SC-80 without the isolator. I have a isolator/kill switch on the negative pole of the aux battery.

Like Scarry, I have the relay on only when camping or doing long runs.The yellow top optima has kept its charge at 12.6 V without extra charging for nearly a year.

If I am not driving the D4 2.7 my 2010 for more than a week, I CTEK charge the starter battery at least once per weekend. My daily work trips are about 16 - 20 km and that seems to charge it OK.

My second battery lasted 5 years before electrical faults appear. first battery replaced at 3 years under warranty by dealer.

go-disco4

Originally Posted by go-disco4

I have the same experience with the older SC-80 without the isolator. I have a isolator/kill switch on the negative pole of the aux battery.

Like Scarry, I have the relay on only when camping or doing long runs.The yellow top optima has kept its charge at 12.6 V without extra charging for nearly a year.

If I am not driving the D4 2.7 my 2010 for more than a week, I CTEK charge the starter battery at least once per weekend. My daily work trips are about 16 - 20 km and that seems to charge it OK.

My second battery lasted 5 years before electrical faults appear. first battery replaced at 3 years under warranty by dealer.

go-disco4

Thanks for that. It's interesting as there are 2 streams of thought here:

1. switch isolator off to stop the small draw from it; and
2. isolate auxiliary battery to charge starter battery only.

So dumb question from me, perhaps for Tim - when the Traxide isolator is switched off (by disconnecting earth wire) are the two batteries connected or isolated?

David