I'm adding my suspension update to this thread because it inspired me to diy.
Some very useful tips in the OP.
I've completed the rears and have fronts along with LCAs to go, sometime in the next fortnight.
I paid around $880 for a pair of BWI units shipped from Advanced Factors.
The D4 is a bit over 6 years old with 125,000km and I've noticed some wallowing when fully loaded or towing.
Nothing drastic but based on feedback here I'd rather not leave it until completely shagged given that we have a lot of travel planned for next year.
I found the rear-most top bolt not too bad and the brass air fitting quite fiddly.
A couple of photos and a short video below.
The air line and socket on the rear top bolt can be seen in this one.
A stubby 12mm was all I could fit to undo the air fitting.
I found that slowly cracking the fitting allowed the air to bleed out and I didn't bother with system deflation.
Close up of the air fitting. The collet grips the air line and needed a little careful leverage to remove
My ghetto setup to gain enough height to tighten the lower bolt, which needs to be done with normal vehicle weight on the strut.
Short video.
So far very happy to have taken this on myself.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Scott, good video. I saw that you didn’t bother with new lower bolts or did I see that wrong?
Lastly, the airline fitting - new one are supplied with the struts. Did you fit the airline into the fitting before fitting the top nuts (more access underneath the support plate) or once the top bolts were done up?
I have received my rear two struts from AF, am waiting on the fronts plus I ordered a set of 4 new lower bolts just in case
Reused existing lower bolts. Couldn't see anything wrong with them.
I pushed the air line in before tightening the top nuts and then checked it again once the nuts were tight.
But I think it would have been easy to just push the line into the fitting with the nuts already done.
Main thing in my mind was not wanting to attach the air line before at least one top nut was attached, so no chance of the strut dropping with air line attached.
Not sure about the fronts yet, suspect access may be worse.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Thanks Scott, i will tackle all four when the fronts arrive, bit too warm atm to do it on the driveway. Will have to make room in the garage. I ordered new bolts to be sure. Apparently front right can be the real pita.
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						Subscriber2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Use needle nose pliers to push in the hose using that rib in the hose for grip as it bottoms out quite obviously and that’s that.
I reckon you should change any such bolts at those torque specs just like head bolts, LCA bolts, hub nuts etc. and just order them at time of buying the struts. Most times they are supplied with the replacement part especially since suspension items can suffer corrosion damage also.
The lower rear arm to hub bolt was known to break on some earlier year cars.
I agree with DJ 100%. Don’t reuse suspension bolts.
Torque to yield is common.
Especially rear Camber bolts - always replace.
Yeah I understand what everyone’s saying. The rear strut lower bolts slipped my mind because the fronts come new with the LCA kit I ordered at the same time as front struts.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
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