Changing the air struts in a Discovery 3

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I agree with DJ 100%. Don’t reuse suspension bolts.
Torque to yield is common.

Especially rear Camber bolts - always replace.

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Understand, but what is the effect on the front LCA bolts of a subsequent wheel alignment? In theory, you'd have to replace the bolts each time you had an alignment as they'd be loosened and re-tightened to goodness knows what torque. Even my specially-trained-by-me wheel aligner just torques up the front LCA bolts to "about there" which I reckon is loosely based on how strong he's feeling on the day.
Mind you, I've no idea how you could attach a torque wrench to the front left side lower LCA nut anyway.

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Originally Posted by DieselLSE

Understand, but what is the effect on the front LCA bolts of a subsequent wheel alignment? In theory, you'd have to replace the bolts each time you had an alignment as they'd be loosened and re-tightened to goodness knows what torque. Even my specially-trained-by-me wheel aligner just torques up the front LCA bolts to "about there" which I reckon is loosely based on how strong he's feeling on the day.
Mind you, I've no idea how you could attach a torque wrench to the front left side lower LCA nut anyway.

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Front ones seem ok for a few alignments, never seen one of these loosen off or fail.
At bush change I still replace them as a matter of course.
Although, in 160k of running and 2 bush changes - the vehicle has only had 3 wheel alignments - delivery, and each change.

Rears though seem to be a weak point. See reports of too many of these failing, so if they need adjustment I would recommend replacement.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Rears though seem to be a weak point. See reports of too many of these failing, so if they need adjustment I would recommend replacement.

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I’ve seen this too but that’s the LCA bush bolts isn’t it? I’ve not read of the strut bolts being a problem?

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

Interesting comment in here about ordering Genuine by putting G after the part number at 9:45.

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This depends on the suppliers. Some use this system, but for most the G afterwards actually defaults to an OEM part as the genuine Land Rover part number does not have a G on the end. For some it doesn't work.

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Originally Posted by PerthDisco

I reckon you should change any such bolts at those torque specs just like head bolts, LCA bolts, hub nuts etc.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I agree with DJ 100%. Don’t reuse suspension bolts.
Torque to yield is common.

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Whilst I don't disagree with this approach and the replacement bolts are usually minor compared to pricing of the major component being replaced, for the sake of completeness the following tables from the Land Rover repair manual for Discovery 4 actually indicate which are to be replaced and not reused:

https://i.ibb.co/ZTx2nzW/Screen-Shot...0-17-11-pm.png https://i.ibb.co/fM7fch5/Screen-Shot...0-17-19-pm.png

Following on from my earlier post for the rears I've now completed the fronts.
I found the inner-most top nut harder to access than the rears due to less space behind.
But eventually landed on a tool setup that worked really well, a ratchet spanner with a socket fitting.
This raises the handle enough but not too much compared to a standard ratchet spanner or socket driver.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...da4bc3b9_b.jpg

You can also see the heat shield bracket that sits over two of the strut studs to the left of this photo.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...27627579_c.jpg

Can't report on any change to performance yet.

Cheers,
Scott

What's the piece that's adapting that 13mm hex spanner ring to the 1/2" square drive for the socket? Or does the socket itself have a hex on it that the spanner is turning?

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

What's the piece that's adapting that 13mm hex spanner ring to the 1/2" square drive for the socket?

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From a set of ratchet spanner adaptors made to suit 13mm spanner, one for each square drive size.

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Originally Posted by LRD414

From a set of ratchet spanner adaptors made to suit 13mm spanner, one for each square drive size.

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Metric - http://www.gearwrench.com.au/wrenche...apter-set.html

Imperial - http://www.gearwrench.com.au/gearwre...apter-set.html

Thought I'd add my recent experience to this thread.

Replaced all four, rears are definitely easier than fronts, that rear top bolt on the fronts is a real pita. Luckily I have a 15mm 3/8" socket and ratchet that fits, but as per Scotts excellent post, those articulated ratchet drivers make it easier. I was surprised when undoing the fronts how loose the lower nuts were, doubt they were done to 300Nm after LCA replacement.

New bolts all round, all torqued to 300Nm, new air fittings (came with the new struts) push in air lines was the easiest bit.

Replaced all rubber brake lines at each corner, now doing caliper overhaul (clean up, new o rings, slide rubber boots and re grease caliper slides, new fluid) and we should be good to go.Attachment 167707Attachment 167708Attachment 167709

First drive after finishing off air strut replacement and brake overhaul.

What a difference! The supple, smooth ride of the D4 is back, no more wallowing like a drunken sailor on shore leave, bumps are a distant memory and steering is sharp and accurate again. Glad i spent the time, money and effort.

Brakes are also sharp again, I did upgrade rotors about 18months ago to RBA slotted and dimpled rotors and TRW pads, but cleaning out the calipers and a full fluid change has also made a big difference.

Well worth it in my view after 200,000km