Can you fit the HD ediff rear shafts to the front?
Like Hiluxes - the D3/D4/RRS are well know to have weak front CVs particular so when off road when height is up and steering near lock and a bit of power is needed - caution in the name of the game in those situations. Noting that unlike the Hilux, a D3 cannot be driven unless you go into Rock Crawl locking the transfer case.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Can you fit the HD ediff rear shafts to the front?
Earlier in the year, in a DIY (damage it yourself) incident, I managed to bust a CV joint and went through the process of replacing it. I'd disengaged it from the hub to get the LCA out/in, and, in my inexperience, I didn't seat it properly when replacing it. Very proud of my work, I went for a drive and... POP! obliterated the housing. I reckon I'd dislocated the inner joint and tried to drive with it in that position. Anyway, I digress...
I contacted Solitaire parts (the Adelaide LR dealer) for a quote on a new drive shaft: about $900 for the part alone. Ouch! I can't imagine walking away from the dealer less than $1500 lighter if I asked them to do the job.
I jumped onto the Advanced Factors website, bought a GKN drive shaft (the mob who manufactures for Land Rover, apparently) delivered for about $350 in 5 days from the UK. Popped it in myself in about an hour. The only thing to be aware of is that you'll probably need a new hub nut (only a few bucks) to suit the newer-style driveshaft. It's really not a difficult job.
Advanced Factors also offer a small discount to Land Rover forum members: use "ADVLRF" at checkout. Worth a look mate, even if you're not going to do the job yourself – supply the parts to your mechanic and save a packet! Check out the Discovery 4 driveshafts page on their website here. I don't reckon I'd be bothering rebuilding the CV. Just replace the whole driveshaft and be done with it (and get the benefit of all new everything in the process).
Hope that helps. Good luck!
- Andrew
Last edited by ndrew; 4th November 2018 at 08:31 PM. Reason: Typo fixes
Great advice. Thanks Andrew.
Are they really weak cv's in D3/D4/RRS? I has watching a 4wd action video yesterday and a guy broke a CV on a 200 series (wasn't the first 200s i've watched snap either).. IMO that should read, all CV's are unpredictable, no matter what you drive and caution should be taken....
230,000 kms and mine are originals... Didn't have any dramas rock crawling during Gordons training at 190,000kms. . .
For sure any CV can break in the right conditions - if you do a search back over the years on here you will see it is not uncommon for the D3 etc - Youtube has the adventures of Black Betty the RRS and it had a a failure/s as well.
The common scenario is high lift, high steering angles and a bit of boot.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
True, true. I thought wheel bearings would be a part to go first with the type of driving i do (lots of corrugations and water crossings plus high km). So i bought a spare front and rear 2 years ago. Still sitting wrapped up in their boxes in the shed.
It seems impossible to predict life expectancy of either part.
hey I saw you being flat towed into Sheepyard on the weekend. Hope it works out.
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