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Thread: Top radiator hose sliced by top engine cover

  1. #81
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    Previously discussed on this forum has been to remove the engine cover entirely. It was thought to be a good thing to do and as a consequence it's not there to rub the radiator hose at all.

    Martin

  2. #82
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    4bee, I agree completely. It's not the engineer's fault, they do their best with the budget they got, but in the end, design flaws WILL happen.
    One bloke swapping a section of hose for stainless tubing is ok, but the manufacturer doing that to 1million cars is prohibitively expensive (I don't think they even use stainless 304 on the car at all, the material IS expensive), so I understand.

    And it's tiny stuff like these mods, improvements and tinkering that really help us make these cars OURS. The LR4 isn't that friendly to user-performed mods, but it's not impossible, and some awesome cars in this forum are a proof of that.

    Anyways, decided to get my hands dirty and see if I can get this over and done with.

    Removed the hose, which was fairly easy, only two pressure clips holding it in place:
    P5170001.jpg

    Also the engine bay was surprisingly clean for a 10 year old car. Only the expected ammount of dust and diesel grime, nothing out of the ordinary, but I've seen newer cars with FILTHY engine bays.

    The damage to the hose:
    P5170009.jpg

    Yeah, it was VERY close to rupturing.

    Cut it off, comparing with the steel bend:
    P5170008.jpg

    I will enlongate this bend by welding some stainless tubing. Got two different sizes. One slightly smaller and a thicker one. I'll test the hose fitment on both once I eat my lunch.
    The tubing:
    P5170010.jpg
    The smaller one has a much thicker wall, which I think I'll have to thin out on the lathe. The thicker one got the ideal wall thickness IMO, but if the hose doesn't fit around it, at least I can go with the smaller one.

    Also, there was this tiny little hose with a weird plug on it hanging around in the engine bay. It was held by a clip that was attached (very tightly I might add) to the coolant hose.
    If anyone can tell me what it does, I would love to know.
    Here is a pic of it:
    P5170003.jpg

    EDIT

    Well, I'm back with some news. Used the thinner, thick-walled piping, welded the bend together and machined some grooves to make sure no hose would even dream about slipping off.

    Here is the bend section after the welds and machining:
    P5170001.jpg

    End result after cutting the hose and connecting everything:
    P5170003.jpgP5170004.jpg

    And the bad boy installed in the car:
    P5170006.jpg

    Decided against cutting the engine cover since the bend made it all pretty safe. The plastic can rub against the steel all it wants now:
    P5170007.jpgP5170008.jpg

    Tested everything, ran the engine until it reached working temp, then went out for a spin. No signs of leaks or anything of the sort.
    Seems like a success.

  3. #83
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    2014 D4 HSE, Traxide Dual Battery System, llams, Compomotive Rims, Prospeed Roof Rack, Rock Sliders and Compressor Guard.

  4. #84
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    It's for bleeding the cooling system , as well as the bleeder on the expansion tank. Necessary after say .....replacing the top hose.

  5. #85
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    No it’s not the diff breather tube. The tube in question is the coolant bleed screw fo when you have to refill the coolant. It’s the same as the one on the coolant tank and at the back of the engine.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #86
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    I will enlongate this bend by welding some stainless tubing. Got two different sizes. One slightly smaller and a thicker one. I'll test the hose fitment on both once I eat my lunch.


    Come on, do tell what you had for lunch, some exotic Brazilian dish I suppose, my mind is wandering?

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Come on, do tell what you had for lunch, some exotic Brazilian dish I suppose, my mind is wandering?
    Nah, it was just the brazillian staple of beans, rice, beef, fries and salad on the side, looks like this:

    Simple, tasty and keeps a man up through his day (lots of carbs in it though)

    Anyways, thanks Discovery and DiscoJeff for the clarification, so it`s basically the seal for a vent on the cooling system. Good to know. I'll check how one flushes the cooling system and refills the fluid when I have time.

  8. #88
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    So, sort of a "Morning Tea/Snack" thing?

    Looks good to me, & thanks.



    and keeps a man up through his day
    I reckon some of us here could use that.

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willi Tom View Post


    P5170007.jpgP5170008.jpg

    Tested everything, ran the engine until it reached working temp, then went out for a spin. No signs of leaks or anything of the sort.
    Seems like a success.
    The only thing I would be concerned about is the cover rubbing against the worm clip on the top left side. Maybe spin the clip around a bit so it doesn't touch?
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willi Tom View Post

    Anyways, decided to get my hands dirty and see if I can get this over and done with.

    Removed the hose, which was fairly easy, only two pressure clips holding it in place:
    P5170001.jpg

    Also the engine bay was surprisingly clean for a 10 year old car. Only the expected ammount of dust and diesel grime, nothing out of the ordinary, but I've seen newer cars with FILTHY engine bays.

    The damage to the hose:
    P5170009.jpg

    Yeah, it was VERY close to rupturing.

    Cut it off, comparing with the steel bend:
    P5170008.jpg

    I will enlongate this bend by welding some stainless tubing. Got two different sizes. One slightly smaller and a thicker one. I'll test the hose fitment on both once I eat my lunch.
    The tubing:
    P5170010.jpg
    The smaller one has a much thicker wall, which I think I'll have to thin out on the lathe. The thicker one got the ideal wall thickness IMO, but if the hose doesn't fit around it, at least I can go with the smaller one.

    Also, there was this tiny little hose with a weird plug on it hanging around in the engine bay. It was held by a clip that was attached (very tightly I might add) to the coolant hose.
    If anyone can tell me what it does, I would love to know.
    Here is a pic of it:
    P5170003.jpg

    EDIT

    Well, I'm back with some news. Used the thinner, thick-walled piping, welded the bend together and machined some grooves to make sure no hose would even dream about slipping off.

    Here is the bend section after the welds and machining:
    P5170001.jpg

    End result after cutting the hose and connecting everything:
    P5170003.jpgP5170004.jpg

    And the bad boy installed in the car:
    P5170006.jpg

    Decided against cutting the engine cover since the bend made it all pretty safe. The plastic can rub against the steel all it wants now:
    P5170007.jpgP5170008.jpg

    Tested everything, ran the engine until it reached working temp, then went out for a spin. No signs of leaks or anything of the sort.
    Seems like a success.
    Nice bit of DIY, good to see. 10 min with a Dremel on the cover and 30 min replacing the top hose and coolant outlet did it for me. The stainless elbow is still rubbing on the cover, but minor issue. I’d also move the jubilee clip fasteners around so that they don’t rub on the cover and fan cowling.

    You do need to crack open that bleed valve after opening the coolant system to let air trapped in the system out.

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