Trust the Bible. Had our rears done not long back. One of the key reasons, apart from marginal on thickness was they could not get any more adjustment out of the EPB. Once done all good again on both sides of the rear braking equation
Rob
Gday All,
Prolly be doing a 4 disc and pad change tomorrow , and I have just been reading Bodsy's brake bible. It says if you replace the rear disc's you need to do a park brake re-adjustment . Why would that be ?
I know my EPB shoe's have more than sufficient material still on them as they were looked at when the rear wheel bearings were done 5000ks ago, and I would have thought that you would only need to do this if replacing the EPB shoe's.
Its basically just a drum brake set up using the inside of the disc as the drum , so if you didn't apply the EPB and removed the old discs and fitted new ones what is the need to adjust the brake shoes ?
I can imagine the thickness of the disc where the pads are applied do wear but surely the inside of the disc doesn't wear as well . Its been a long time since I played around with drum brakes but from memory we never had any issue's removing the drum if the brakes weren't applied.
I am happy to do it the way he says but my simple brain tells me that it shouldn't be needed.
Thoughts.
Cheers Ean
.
Trust the Bible. Had our rears done not long back. One of the key reasons, apart from marginal on thickness was they could not get any more adjustment out of the EPB. Once done all good again on both sides of the rear braking equation
Rob
Rob
MY15 TDV6. Compomotives with KO2's, Traxide 160-DBMS, Llams, OE bar, custom rear storage slide, Rhino roof storage system, LSM TPMS, ICOM 440N, rear ladder and GOE compressor guard
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterITs certainly possible it would wear the metal down overtime and this could effect the fitting of the new disc forcing the brake pad to be partially contacted and overheat on your first drive.
in any case there is a manual adjustment under the disc so what’s the downside in spinning it back a slight amount? No extra work
Just because it's best practice I think Ean. In many instances it would have been a long time since the last adjustment and rotor change is the ideal time because everything is apart anyway. If you use the EPB sparingly and never drive through it for auto-release it is unlikely for the "drum" side to be worn much, meaning in theory it should be ok. However, what I found when doing mine is that the clearance between shoes and "drum" was minimal and this made it difficult to install the new rotor, so I backed it off and then followed the adjustment instructions. Also, your shoes were inspected fairly recently but was an adjustment done or are they close to the limit of adjustment? I think these doubts are why it's worth doing the adjustment and then you know exactly what you have.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
Gday Scott,
When I was in Tassie and asked Justin Cooper he said roughly 60% left on the shoes of the EPB - bloke at AMV told me a similar number and the car has not had the drive thru option used since we have owned it. I have no issue's doing the adjustment and as you say it could be more for the cars that never really get looked at.
Will see how it plays out tomorrow I guess.
Cheers Ean
Justin probably did an adjustment anyway. The amount of wear is not really the main issue. They can be relatively good for wear but still heading towards limit of adjustment. It all depends on the starting point.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterHi Ean. Did this whole process just a month or two ago and followed the bible. Great help. But i baulked at the handbrake adjustment too as I figured if the rotor went on with no resistance then I thought why have more play by backing it off. Buttoned it all up and no drama to date. Now I’m worried. In theory I wonder how they can wear as they are only applied stationary and release prior to Taking off. What wears them or the inside of the rotor out? I’m sure someone can help me out here.
Cheers Steve
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberJust do it right? Why not do it properly and know that you have not only replaced the discs but you’re sure the park brake is adjusted correctly. I’m mean with the endless posts of failed park brakes due to over extension, why would you risk it? It’s a simple procedure. Loosen a screw and adjust a nut. It’s literally 5 minutes a side. It’s the difference between being a whinger on here about a screeching park brake and smiling every day.
As Nike say “ Just do it”.
Plus you need to also do the bedding procedure to bed the pads to the new discs or the pads won’t grip. Again. Just do it.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
While I agree in principle there’s no need to have a go at people for asking questions and trying to understand the equipment in more detail Jeff.
Steve, even with static application you are still getting some wear as the load is taken up onto the shoes because there’s still a little bit of rotation even on a slight hill. Also, the adjustment process is not solely backing off. It is backing off after having an applied torque (hard on) to a specific clearance so there’s neither too little or too much clearance. If yours was nicely within the module’s range of movement then no issues but the adjustment process is the only way to be sure.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterThanks Scott. That’s what I was looking for. This is my first foray in landrover land having had a long list of Toyota’s. I will return to the rear end and double check though. Hosing down up here so good excuse for maintenance.
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