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Thread: Traxide isolator earth wire on/off switch

  1. #11
    LRD414's Avatar
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    The isolator itself has enough of a power draw to hasten the low voltage situation. A switch is a lot easier than solar or trickle charging, although those options would be preferred if the vehicle was being left unused for a week or more.
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    What is the benefit of adding a switch, i would have it better to have both batteries linked so they can balance ?
    Wouldn't adding a small solar panel or trickle charger be a better solution.
    Turns off relay so reduces power draw if vehicle is idle for a period of time.

    So can charge batteries separately,if needed,i do this with C Teck charger,seems to work better than charging both together.

    And any other reason the batteries may need to be isolated,its an easy way to do it instead of disconnecting cables,etc.

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    I get the idea but i wouldn't expect 3-4 days to be an issue unless you have a weak battery/ies.
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    I get the idea but i wouldn't expect 3-4 days to be an issue unless you have a weak battery/ies.
    If only doing short runs,it doesn’t take long for th battery to get low in a D3/4.

    That’s one reason I charge mine with C tech vry two week or so,battery is now almost 5 yrs old,which is amazing for a D4.

    When we do long runs I don’t worry about it.

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    Same for me. Short runs only and then a few days off. Hasn’t been on the ctek in a couple of months because I forgot. Both batteries new in June.
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    Just got around to fitting this switch. The action of the switch feels pretty good. I was originally thinking to fit it inline on the cable but decided to solder it directly to the terminal as per below. It's very light so I don't expect any fatigue issues...





    David

    Quote Originally Posted by l00kin4 View Post
    I quite like the look of these - nice and small and will work nicely inline. Depends on the quality and how well they 'latch' whether it's a good option. Could possibly just glue to the side of the isolator case too.
    10Pcs 12*8MM DC 1A Black On Off Mini Push Button Switches For Electric TorchWG | eBay

    Just bought some so I can check them out. I'll report back.

    David
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    I went with the in-line connector idea. When the two halves are separate (to turn the isolator off) I protect the more exposed male half with a spare female half.
    The other connector in the photos is the ctek one for charging the cranking battery.







    Cheers,
    Scott
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    What is the benefit of adding a switch, i would have it better to have both batteries linked so they can balance ?
    Wouldn't adding a small solar panel or trickle charger be a better solution.
    I have suggested the use of small solar panels for many years, but the vehicle must be used in a way that it spends parking time in the sun.

    Solar keeps the batteries charged in some cases, while the switch fixes it for other.

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    On an aside, (and not wanting to hijack the thread) but I wonder how much LLAMS helps drain the battery. I have mine on the lowest setting and there is a green light on all the time. Also I have the 80 Traxide system and I cannot see any lights near the unit. What am i missing?
    2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap

  10. #20
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    There is an led on my SC80 isolator (see photos) but that’s not the only active component to the unit, as mentioned earlier in this thread. The Llams led can be switched off and Llams doesn’t need to be on an active setting anyway.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

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