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yes im considering this, diy flush through the valve in the normal directionQuote:
Originally Posted by scarry
edit, actually theres a reason (mentioned earlier) i dont think i can do the flush, as i dont have a vac to vap off all the solvent that is left behind, and if i close up the system after diy flush, to take to town, that solvent could get into the pump/oil
It's complicated Gav. Anywhere between 2 & 5 years would be my target.Quote:
Originally Posted by gavinwibrow
I don't buy new vehicles, so when I get a "new to me" vehicle a re-gas is on the first service list. Depending on how much comes out, I might do it again in 2 years, and depending on how much it's down determines how long I leave it till the next one. I've just checked the service record on the D3, and the last time I did it was 2018 (had a lot going on since then), so I'll put it on the list for the next service.
I had mine serviced last year for its first top up after 14 years. There was no trouble with it and it’s not noticeably better but I suspect it’s a bit stronger on the hottest day. They said it needed a little extra gas but nothing crazy. I seem to be well into extra time on my completely original system but fingers crossed.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
Thanks Brad, much appreciated. I think I'll work on 3.5 years ie during and midway between major services as a starting point. My services are usually time based as I normally don't do anywhere near the km service parameters.
So I had the idea to cut open the drier to see what it was like inside to hopefully give me some insight into what had been moving through the system.
Unfortunately cutting it open with a fairly thick bladed drop saw just filled it with metal so i wasnt able to tell what was old or new...
But I was surprised to see that only the very end has the desiccant in, also the flow does not go through the desiccant.
The welcome surprise I found though was that theres a screen filter in it. And when I checked the condenser with my air compressor, I confirmed that all flow goes through the drier tube, and thus screen filter.
So on finding this I felt more confident in deciding to not flush or replace anything in the cabin. At worse there will be some extra oil in the system, if there is a build up in the evap, but this should not damage anything. I just didnt want to risk making things worse by attempting a diy flush, mainly that there would be left over solvent in the evap that would get sealed in when i finish assembly and drive into town to get regas which might get it into the new pump/oil. Pulling the vac by tech should get it out , but I cant be sure.
Tommorow morning I will get re-gassed.
Attachment 182718
(there is another 1/3 length of tube in between i cut out)
Attachment 182719
Flow IN on right, left has the filter, so filtered on way out, leaving plenty of space in the cavity for buildup.
Attachment 182720
The screen,
For anyone interested this is roughly how much space youd need to get the valve out, to get this much clearance you would have to remove the metal turbo output pipe nearby, something I didnt have to do.
Attachment 182717
You can flush through the tx valve, I've done it.. but!!! When you do it. Use proper AC flush, that way you won't ruin seals in never never land.
Push it in slowly, let it sit. Then slowly push more in till it's dribbling out the compressor inlet. Let it sit for a while then start to push it out. Then start going both ways to break it up.
Keep going till it's clear.. Finish in the forward direction.
I use brake clean etc to clean out evaps if I can get the tx off easy. Like in commys etc. Don't use anything else.
When your done pushing the flush through etc.. Use heaps of air to make sure it's all gone. The AC guy just needs to vac it down for an hour and a half as opposed to an hour. In this heat. 1 hr would do.
When they say don't add oil directly to the compressor I'm pretty sure they mean the ports. People used to pour oil in the inlet and the compressor would hydraulic lock on start up and destroy itself. The sump is where I always fill them.
AC tech said he couldnt remember if he weighed it or not, but was confident he could get a indication of level by pressure, I will be asking for a weigh though from now on every few years.
Gassing went fine, he added 10ml oil and some dye with the refrigerant and now its making the cold stuff again, about 6.3 deg c at the vent.
I finished adding all my photos and notes here A/C Compressor & Condenser Change Pics & Notes
Next to my car was a suburu, the compressor was right on top of the horizontal engine and the tx valve was at the engine side of the firewall [bawl]
In the hour I was there since 8am, people just kept coming with car AC problems...
So in the end, you replaced the compressor, condenser and dryer, left the oil volume in the compressor as is, and the AC guy added some oil to compensate for the condenser and dryer change?
Nothing was flushed per se?
Not judging, just clarifying. I’m sure it’ll be fine.
Good write up, well done.
Pretty much. AC tech says there is generally enough oil in a new pump for whole system. My understanding of the manuals mention of replacing oil if you replace a condenser or evap would be if you where just replacing either of those and not the pump. I think the amount he added was just the default setting on his system for a re-gas. Actually I realise now the manual says 130cm3 for total oil amount, and that IS 130ml or 130cc which is exactly what the pump has new, so the 10ml he add is extra plus anything left in the evap which may or may not be much.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
But tech said its not really until you get like 2 or 3x the total system amount that you might get an impact from too much oil which does no damage just affect performance.
I did clean out the small bit of pipe from the pump to the condenser as it is easily removed, and I had both ends disconnected.
