Thread: Disco 4 round plug to Anderson plug adapter + brake controller

I run that setup but with one key difference, I fitted the Intervolt solid state battery isolation switch between the car main battery and the 50A Anderson plug running to the rear of the car. I use the Anderson to charge my camper AGM battery without a dc2dc charger, this works perfectly. This battery also runs the camper fridge and lights etc.

From hard won experience in Karajini NP the camper battery will drain the car battery flat if not disconnected from the car. The intervolt SSI automatically disconnects main and camper batteries at voltage levels you can program. This ensures that the main cranking battery is available for starting the car, regardless of being hooked up to a camper or aux battery.

Redarc do these as well but they are not solid state and not programmable.

No need for a dc2dc, but I'd definitely recommend an insulator switch of some kind.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

I run that setup but with one key difference, I fitted the Intervolt solid state battery isolation switch between the car main battery and the 50A Anderson plug running to the rear of the car. I use the Anderson to charge my camper AGM battery without a dc2dc charger, this works perfectly. This battery also runs the camper fridge and lights etc.

From hard won experience in Karajini NP the camper battery will drain the car battery flat if not disconnected from the car. The intervolt SSI automatically disconnects main and camper batteries at voltage levels you can program. This ensures that the main cranking battery is available for starting the car, regardless of being hooked up to a camper or aux battery.

Redarc do these as well but they are not solid state and not programmable.

No need for a dc2dc, but I'd definitely recommend an insulator switch of some kind.

Sounds good. In our case there is a Traxide DBC between the starting and second batteries in the Defender. An 80 watt solar panel on the roof keeps the starting battery charged at all times. That means the Traxide connects the two batteries. The Defender's Anderson trailer plug runs straight from the main power supply from the alternator, so the trailer can't drain the batteries in the Defender as they are not directly connected. The camper also has a safety switch at it's twin batteries.
When camped I plug 160 watt folding solar panels to the Anderson plug on the camper, which keeps its twin batteries charged. Works well.

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

Sounds good. In our case there is a Traxide DBC between the starting and second batteries in the Defender. An 80 watt solar panel on the roof keeps the starting battery charged at all times. That means the Traxide connects the two batteries. The Defender's Anderson trailer plug runs straight from the main power supply from the alternator, so the trailer can't drain the batteries in the Defender as they are not directly connected. The camper also has a safety switch at it's twin batteries.
When camped I plug 160 watt folding solar panels to the Anderson plug on the camper, which keeps its twin batteries charged. Works well.

Umm, if your Anderson plug wiring for the trailer is connected to the back of the alternator I’m thinking it can draw from the starter given the starter has a connection the the alternator.

I have my trailer Anderson connected to the AUX battery which means the isolator separates the start from all other barriers.

Originally Posted by weeds

Umm, if your Anderson plug wiring for the trailer is connected to the back of the alternator I’m thinking it can draw from the starter given the starter has a connection the the alternator.

I have my trailer Anderson connected to the AUX battery which means the isolator separates the start from all other barriers.

The auto electrician connected it to the main power feed just before the starting battery.

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

My recommendation is to use 6mm cable, 60 amp fuses and Anderson plugs

I think you mean 6B&S cable ( 13.5mm2 ) and NOT 6mm cable which is actually 4.5mm2.

Originally Posted by Mrhigherbeing

I’ll bite the bullet. Cheers y’all

If you're going to "bite the bullet" - contact Drivesafe on here at Traxide and consider fitting one of his purpose made kits. Far safer than some bodgy wiring system with no protection / isolation of the main cranking battery. The Traxide systems can be tailored to your specific requirements and are easy to install (I put mine in at home - took me all of about two hours) and provide an Anderson plug at the back of the vehicle specifically for powering your trailer etc WITHOUT the risk of draining your main cranking battery overnight should you forget to disconnect.

The instructions that come with a Traxide kit alone are worth their weight in gold, as they show you in detail how / where to run your cable to the back of the vehicle, with specific detail on how to remove / replace trim panels in the vehicle etc.