150 C for 40min in convection oven
You could google microwave regeneration of silica gel dessicant.
In a lab they would heat it and cool it in a dessicator and weigh repeatedly till it didnt loose mass to prove it 100% dry
I have a bag of air compressor desiccant that has been sitting on the shelf for a few years in its zip loc bag. The colour has changed from orange to brown so may have absorbed a little moisture through the bag over the years. As it has not changed to blue or white it should still be OK to use but to make sure I want to cook it in the oven a bit to remove any moisture it has absorbed.
So what temperature does the oven have to be and how long do you cook it it for? Time or when the beads change back to orange?
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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						Supporter150 C for 40min in convection oven
You could google microwave regeneration of silica gel dessicant.
In a lab they would heat it and cool it in a dessicator and weigh repeatedly till it didnt loose mass to prove it 100% dry
Thanks - that is great.
garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Cooked the desicant - some beads were still blue after the 40 min so going for 60 min.
Next question - I have an exhaust valve kit to go into the Hitachi compressor however I cannot remove the big nut (17mm) without damaging it. Is there a way to remove the exhaust valve without wrecking it.
Pump.jpg
thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Master
					
					
						Supporter
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SupporterIs the exhaust valve buggered? Assuming the compressor is pumping OK, it makes a farty sound within a minute of starting the engine if its working OK
I bought the upgraded kit from 4x4 airseals to include the exhhaust valve kit
It came with a printed leaflet advising not to use the kit unless the old valve had failed. The risk of damage outweighs a routine valve changeout and the exhaust valves rarely fail
I took the advise and the original valve continues to work a year or so after the rebuild.
I have no idea if the exhaust valve is working or not(I assume it still is). Advice from a few different places was to put a kit in it when working on the compressor so i bought the kit after all it is just a O ring, spring and seal moulding. I wasn't expecting the force required to move the housing - if I apply more force it will wreck it so I am having to go with the exhaust valve I have.
Thanks for the input.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Some for information from the learned compressor gurus?
I assume this is the valve that opens and closes as the piston goes up and down in the attached pic.
Can someone confirm it is the right way around?
Pump 1.jpg
Also - if a AMK was to be fitted in place of the Hitachi the AMK will actually run without without its software upgrade but I understand the software patch is to lower its pressure.
Now I have heard there is actually a software update for the Hitachi that does a similar process - can anyone confirm?
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
As per other posts “if it ain’t broke....”
However, were you able to get the other bolts holding the exhaust valve off? Your pic shows the arrow to the lower left one. Try some Penatrene, or WD 40. Personally I’ve found the WD lawnmower cleaner work very well on corroded and especially alloys in freeing up bolts.
seems a bit odd that they offer a valve kit for the exhaust, then recommend not to service it.
No is pointed to the large 17mm head of the actual exhaust valve - it will not move so I am not going to tempt fate.
I certainly accept the advice that Grappler provided about not servicing the exhaust valve but that is not consistent with many other posts on various LR forums. There were no instructions whatsover for my kit. If the exhaust valve was easy to undo I would replace it but as it will not undo without damage it is staying where it is.
Cheers
garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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