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Thread: ZF 6HP automatic transmission metal sump pan - torque specs?

  1. 18th March 2019, 12:36 AM #11
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    gavinwibrow
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    As you will need to use a 1/4 drive or something similar in the same small size, just as tight as you can get it. You wont be able to over do it.
    pay particular attention to all the rear ones as this is where I have seen them leak.

    Another note, if you look through some old posts you will see somewhere I have recommended a steel pan with a alloy/rubber gasket that wont ever leak.
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  2. 18th March 2019, 07:49 AM #12
    twr7cx
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoClax View Post
    L320 vs L319... Try and get at the front bolts in an L320 and you'll know what Garry is talking about.
    I wasn’t stating for L320 as haven’t worked on one and posting in the D3/4 section.

    Are you guys removing the rear torque converter to chassis mount through bolt and jacking the torque converter up a few inches first to increase access?
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  3. 18th March 2019, 08:06 PM #13
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    Yes, fit hydraulix jack under transfer case, take a bit of load, remove bolt, Then jack up until slight resistance is felt, about 50mm is all you get but its enough to clear the cross member.
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  4. 19th March 2019, 07:19 AM #14
    twr7cx
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE View Post
    Yes, fit hydraulix jack under transfer case, take a bit of load, remove bolt, Then jack up until slight resistance is felt, about 50mm is all you get but its enough to clear the cross member.
    Exactly, and then my small 3/8" and 1/4" torque wrenches fit just fine.
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  5. 19th March 2019, 03:46 PM #15
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    Yes on a D4 with a 6 speed you have more room between the cross member than with a D3.

    The other thread has some really good info, where to buy the sump/filter kits, JC also mentions removing the rear bolt on the auto and raising it up.
    Regards
    Daz

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