Hi BushDsco, before you do anything, try discharging your batteries so they are at at least 12.2v or lower.
Then go for a drive and see if the voltage drops to to the point where the red LED flashes.
if both batteries are fully charged, the BMS may be deliberately running at lower voltages.
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
You can safely discharge any battery down to 11.6v, and you will not only not damage them, but you will still be able to start your motor.
I suspect that because you are keeping your batteries fully charged, that BMS “think” they may be getting too charged while driving and is trying to correct the “problem”
This is an oversimplification of what might be happening but it may also indicate that nothing is wrong with your alternator, and this test should give some idea of the condition of your alternator, one way or the other.
So Tim may have nailed it. I left the disco off charge over the weekend and went for a couple of drives locally finishing Xmas shopping.
On both occasions the battery voltage was under 12.6 before cranking and didn’t improve after when running. I kept my cool even though I wanted to put it on chargeand left till Monday morning and the drive to work hoping it would still start.
Not only did it start, the alternator kicked in at around 14.64v and started charging the batteries, after a 30 minute drive charge rate was 14.4v.
Driving home was a repeat performance, alternator kicked in, charge rate at 14.4v, dull green light all the way home.
Too early to call, will report back next week but might have saved me a new alternator.
Rovacraft sells genuine Denso alternator for around 650. I woyld not be paying 1200 plus fitting. Agree that batteries need discharging too, for the alt to actually do some work. Sounds like you've got it sorted.
The book says it is a 45min job to replace a alternator, so $1200 for the total supply and fit is a bit over the top.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I replaced mine January last year. Pricing was between about $550 and $1200 for the same genuine item (note that some alternatives were the same price range).
Ashdown Ingram advised me they had 3 instock for just under $600 but when I went to collect it it was not a Denso but an OEX (ROC not PRC made). The guy could not understand what the issue was - to him they were all the same.
Being 4.30pm on a Friday and I needed the car I took the OEX (checking later that these had the same price range as the Denso).
Has been fine - no issues - took me about one and a half hours to fit - even had the correct pulley on it - seems to be an issue with some Denso and knockoffs that the pulley is wrong and you need to use your old one.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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