Thread: New Oil Pump

Is this the actual oil pump or the oil pump cover?

Mine was replaced with water pump at time of timing belt change and was the old dodgy variety originally. MY08 model.

That was done in about 2014 so that’s coming up again in next year or two.

It is the oil pump - all one component - comprises the actual pump itself, the housing and seals etc.

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

So Dazza , have you found any transplanted territory engines have suffered crank failures due to the same poor build quality of the ford crankshaft ?

I only ask as it seems most transplanted engines are coming from later model territory's and this could indicate that Ford did address the issue. In saying that I still see the odd post about late D4 engines failing due to crank failures so maybe they didn't fix it.

Cheers Ean

Absolutely spot on there with your thoughts and a dam valid question.

*Did Ford with their "on the fly engineering" (as in fix it as you go) did they actually finally sort this issue.
*Ive not found any info on the 2.7lt failing in a Territory.
*Two Ford mechanics I know have never heard of a territory engine failing.
*I use 2014 - 2016 spec engines, in the hope that all has been sorted. (2011 onwards is when the 2.7lt was available in the Territory).

Originally Posted by loanrangie

And yet they built the Lada so not all is engineered properly, can't find any reference to anyone that has fitted one .

re lada, It was actually a Fiat design, I believe Fiat even built one of the factories in the old Russia.

Its down fall was build quality (we all know about that right, dont we?).

Originally Posted by 101RRS

Well what do most fail from then?

Most that I see are just like the pic I posted, spun bearings by the look.
You will likely find that the crankshaft breakage is a end result of the above issue.

Few months back a bloke was selling an ex Territory TDV6 in pieces on gumtree but no idea how or why it failed.

Just back on the Oil Pump thing...IMHO

*The original oil pump assembly had a housing that wasnt moron proof.
*The timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, bolts to the oil pump housing and is a small 10mm bolt with a torque setting of 25NM (from memory).
*As pretty well all oil pump housing failures I have seen have been "just" after the timing belt was changed, I suspect the retaining bolt for the timing belt tensioner has been well over torqued past spec.
*How does a "professional" stuff this up?
*I suspect the torque wrench being used is likely a large 1/2 drive more suited to do head bolts on a truck rather than a small 10mm bolt in a alloy housing.
*You would be surprised at how many mechanics that are just wages slaves (no offense intended) that dont have a good quality torque wrench, a number of torque wrenches, or none at all.
*Often its the workshop that has a shop wrench everyone uses, they also may have a cheap branded one at that.
*Using a large 1/2 drive click style torque wrench is overkill for a small 10mm bolt and torque settings will be well exceeded.

The pic below: top torque wrench is a 1/2 drive "click" style that has a max torque of round 400NM, well suited for doing head bolts on an old engine.
The bottom torque wrench is a 3/8 drive (smaller) is digital, has progressive LED on the side and sound. Its has the finesse and fine accuracy needed for such a job as timing belts.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Just back on the Oil Pump thing...IMHO

*The original oil pump assembly had a housing that wasnt moron proof.
*The timing belt tensioner retaining bolt, bolts to the oil pump housing and is a small 10mm bolt with a torque setting of 25NM (from memory).
*As pretty well all oil pump housing failures I have seen have been "just" after the timing belt was changed, I suspect the retaining bolt for the timing belt tensioner has been well over torqued past spec.
*How does a "professional" stuff this up?
*I suspect the torque wrench being used is likely a large 1/2 drive more suited to do head bolts on a truck rather than a small 10mm bolt in a alloy housing.
*You would be surprised at how many mechanics that are just wages slaves (no offense intended) that dont have a good quality torque wrench, a number of torque wrenches, or none at all.
*Often its the workshop that has a shop wrench everyone uses, they also may have a cheap branded one at that.
*Using a large 1/2 drive click style torque wrench is overkill for a small 10mm bolt and torque settings will be well exceeded.

The pic below: top torque wrench is a 1/2 drive "click" style that has a max torque of round 400NM, well suited for doing head bolts on an old engine.
The bottom torque wrench is a 3/8 drive (smaller) is digital, has progressive LED on the side and sound. Its has the finesse and fine accuracy needed for such a job as timing belts.

In addition torque wrenches are grossly inaccurate at the lower end of their range. If mechanics are using high range wrenches on small low range bolts they will be overtightened. From what I have seen a lot of workshop mechanics mostly don't torque things to spec. they just use smaller or larger battery impact drivers depending on bolt size.
I'm only a home mechanic but I own 6 torque wrenches. My largest is 3/4" drive with a maximum of 450nm and the smallest is 3/8" drive with a max of 17nm. I have such a wide range because I work my cars and my bikes, some of my bike suspension has 6mm threads on an alloy shaft which is very easily damaged.