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Thread: Dual battery system

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Yes, $330 to be exact. I already had the power and earth cable and twin core sheathed to run to the rear so even if you add $50 for that.
    What AGM did you use to get all that to fit into $330? I can’t even find an AGM for less let alone the Traxide tray and isolator.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  2. #52
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    I didn’t even review my battery options, all I have ever read is yellow top battery is the one.

    Not sure how much battery I need for the fridge but more the better is the likely answer, nothing that can be changed now.

    Re. Tim - thanks for the heads up,, I’ll have a look into it

  3. #53
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    I didn’t even review my battery options, all I have ever read is yellow top battery is the one.
    Have a read of a recent thread for an SSB alternative. Recently there’s been a spate of premature failures with Yellowtops and a poor response in warranty claims for a few people. Keep an eye on it; physical signs of warping.

    Cheers,
    Scott

    PS don’t forget photos of the setup
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  4. #54
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    Lukeis, once it's all finished and you have done a week or so of normal driving, try doing a driveway test.

    When you know you will not be driving for a day or two, park up in your backyard and run the fridge.

    Don't forget to go to it every so often.

    Measure the voltage of both batteries when you start the test, then see how long it takes to discharge the Optima down to 11.58v ( 20% SoC )

    This chart will help you monitor the state of charge during the test.


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