My RH rear failed at 160k , but 10 yr old car that spent most of its life in the tropics and big wet seasons. I ended up doing both just for piece of mind.
The joys of mechanical components
Cheers Ean
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						SupporterHad a noise in the back of the car , checked the RH side big wobble , off to the indy to fix (nit the right tools to tackle this ) Then he rings me the LH side was worse ,at 170 k i thought they would go longer , already replaced a front LH EGRS few weeks ago What is next ?
My RH rear failed at 160k , but 10 yr old car that spent most of its life in the tropics and big wet seasons. I ended up doing both just for piece of mind.
The joys of mechanical components
Cheers Ean
Mine went at 9yrs and about 170k km. My fronts were not long after. Cost me $1500 for all 4, and installed the fronts myself (the hub bolts on/off)
Since buying it in 2015 with 150k km i have taken it through a few muddy puddles. If they last another 150k km i will be happy.
My Hyundai i30 needed a front wheel bearing done before 90k km, if thats any comparison. It chewed through the hub too.
Ok - so my RRS is 11 years old and now covered 175,000km - no noises or issues but I have had wheel bearings in the back of my mind for a while as I have had some nasty problems in the past when I had my Series 3 (wheel fell off) and Subaru.
Now I know that when you replace the bearings on the RRS/D3 you get the hub complete with the bearing and you cannot just do the bearings themselves, however can the bearings be repacked?
Based on the kms discussed in this thread can I expect some issues before too long?
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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						SubscriberNo the bearings cannot be repacked as they are a fully sealed unit.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						Master
					
					
						SupporterI managed to get nearly 300K out of my bearings (possibly through ignornance, as the workshop replaced them all on the same day).
I hadn't noticed anything wrong on my 2000k trips to the workshop, but evidently they reckoned all needed replacing on same day.
Since bearings are sealed, and you cannot spin the wheel to check for bearing rumble or such, it seems that the only way to check wheel bearings is to simply jack the wheel off ground, and grab top to bottom, or side to side and look for "wriggle".
ANY movement, then time to replace.
I have found a couple of Australian suppliers who will deliver pairs of front hubs for between $127-135 a pair, so they are not expensive.
There are other brands of hubs that specify Timken bearings within and they are only slightly dearer.
Just replace, not worth the worry.
$130 for a pair? Genuine ones cost about double that, each. So four times the price (or a lot more again if you get it in the green box). I just brought a pair of genuine OE Timkens in for a bit under $400 landed and that was pretty sharp pricing. I would be wary of cheaper bearings for something so critical myself.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
I have read on other forums to ensure whatever brand hubs you get, that they should have Timkin bearings - if not a changeover will be required before too long as no name bearings will not last long.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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