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Thread: Rear wheel bearings

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Ok - so my RRS is 11 years old and now covered 175,000km - no noises or issues but I have had wheel bearings in the back of my mind for a while as I have had some nasty problems in the past when I had my Series 3 (wheel fell off) and Subaru.

    Now I know that when you replace the bearings on the RRS/D3 you get the hub complete with the bearing and you cannot just do the bearings themselves, however can the bearings be repacked?

    Based on the kms discussed in this thread can I expect some issues before too long?

    Garry
    Only the front come as hubs, which undo with 4 bolts. They are super easy and a side can be done in an hour. The rears (at least on the D3, and I dont think they changed for the D4) are press fit into the hubs and take 2-3 hrs each side (based on what i was charged by my Indy). Not sure if you can just buy a replacement rear hub with bearings fitted.

  2. #12
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    Thanks for that - but I am now confused as people have indicated front and rears are a complete hub/bearing assembly but I may have misunderstood.

    So with the rears you do just replace the bearings unlike the fronts where the hub is replaced?

    Cheers

    garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #13
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Thanks for that - but I am now confused as people have indicated front and rears are a complete hub/bearing assembly but I may have misunderstood.

    So with the rears you do just replace the bearings unlike the fronts where the hub is replaced?

    Cheers

    garry
    Yep, the front is a complete assembly so you unbolt it and bolt on a complete new unit. the rears you press out the old bearing and press in the new the refit to the car.

    Cheers Ean

  4. #14
    Markus1 Guest
    Either the wobble test or better still mechanics ears (can make your own for cheap too) are the best way to test. The test of turn left and right and listening for noise often identifies the wrong side.

  5. #15
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    Rear bearing hub suppliers

    You are all quite right to recommend Timken bearing in the hubs, nothing less, and they are usually much cheaper than genuine (which likely have Timken in them).
    One cheapie seller on Ebay was offering a 3 year warranty on the bearings, but imagine the mucking about to claim on that lot.
    When the service guys replaced all of mine (with non genuine but with Timken bearings in the hubs) they charged me "genuine" type price.
    So I checked with state LR parts supplier, and Lo, they had genuine LR hubs on special at cheaper than "Timken" aftermarket brands.
    (And I would have been about $400 cheaper on the full set if my service guy had checked with them first.........maybe he did and I was just charged anyway...who knows?)
    So maybe check with your LR dealer first in case they have a "special" going.

  6. #16
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    Timken are the original, genuine supplier AFAIK. Getting the hubs in a Timken box or green box is the only difference. My new Timken hubs have genuine LR part numbers on them.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  7. #17
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    Timken front hubs price

    Cheapest I have found for Timken bearing front hubs (with nut) was $160 each (ex UK), but you still have freight on that.
    So work that against whatever your best price will be from local supply for same.
    I think when LR dealer had their special on front hubs, it was $245 each or thereabouts. (Pretty reasonable for Land Rover.)

  8. #18
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    That's about what I paid (LRDirect). Hard to say what the freight was as I got a (heavy) front diff and a few other things at the same time so shipping + duty added up. But their freight & duty calculator in checkout is pretty good so you can rack it up before you pull the trigger. One week from order to boxes arriving in semi-rural Vic. And most of that time was at this end. Not bad...
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  9. #19
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    I done my RH rear @ 200,000 and the LH rear at 240,000. My disco is heavy on the rear axle as well with the 100L long range tank and kaymar twin spare rear bar + the 3rd row seats are nearly always in use as well

    Both front wheel bearings where replaced at 174,000 not long after I first brought my D3
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  10. #20
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    Need to replace front RH wheel bearing assembly on our 2006 RRS, as its collapsed (260K)

    Ive been looking into the options for replacement. Im tempted to give the cheap kits available on ebay for about $100, a go. Has anyone had a bad experience with the cheapies.
    As mentioned earlier in this thread sometimes the genuine is on special, so I will check with a dealer.
    Are Timken for $360, the way to go? I see they are sold on Amazon and other forum discussions reckon they are made in China anyway?

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