G'day all,
So my old DEKA 9A34 Intimidator AGM Battery is on its way out - its installed in the aux battery compartment on my MY10 D4 and charged using one of Dave's Traxide kits.
The DEKA has been a great battery but are now getting pricey so looking at SSB HVT's - can I fit a SSB HVT-70D in its place without any issues? the 85Ah compered to the old 55Ah could come in handy.
If it does fit am I better going for the HVT-70LD and switching it around 180 degrees to get the positive terminal further towards the engine?
Cheers
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Cheer Mike.
My DEKA is 203mm tall with the terminals furthest away from the motor, hence why I though maybe the HVT70LD rotated 180 degrees would give me enough clearance?
Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
Foton Tunland Cummins ISF
Disco 1 3 door 4.6 V8 Auto
RRC V8 Auto "Classic" Softdash
RRC 300 TDI Auto
Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
Disco 1 300 Tdi Auto Ute
SAME Explorer 70HP 4x4 Tractor plus Nell Loader
Subaru GDA WRX
Triumph Bonneville SE
Yamaha TTR250
Hi LRHybrid100, your Deka is a Deep Cycle battery and the SSB HVT70LD is a cranking battery.
While this may not seem to be important, but with Traxide isolators, you gain major advantages by using a cranking battery as the an auxiliary battery instead of a Deep Cycle battery.
When charging directly off an alternator ( via the Traxide isolator ) Deep Cycle batteries take much longer to fully recharge whereas Cranking batteries can take full advantage of the high current alternator in D4s and will charge rapidly.
Also, Deep cycle batteries do not like being used as cranking batteries and with the Traxide isolator sharing the current load when starting your motor, a Deep cycle battery will not provide as much current while starting your motor.
Using a cranking battery as the auxiliary battery will mean a lot more current is provided by the auxiliary battery during starting, which lowers the load on the main cranking battery, helping to extend the lifespan of the cranking battery.
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						SupporterBackground - 2014 D4, running Traxide system. Plenty of driving time most days, but system is topped up with C-Tek charger every couple of weeks (or couple of nights if I'm not driving as much). 60lt fridge lives in the back and has been running non-stop since 2017. Primary battery (Varta) was replaced a few months ago.
I got 4 years out of my first Yellowtop, and replaced it with an SSB HVT-70LD in September 2021. This is now nearing the end of it's life, down to 350CCA (from rated 620CCA) after just 3 years and my fridge cuts out after around 24 hours without driving (or after fully charging at home).
I've regularly carried out the "reconditioning" process of overnight charging to float every night for a week or more, but it hasn't helped. Once the Primary voltage drops enough to disconnect the Traxide, I only get a few hours out of the SSB on its own before the AGB-25 switches off the fridge. Even when new, I didn't feel the 85Ah SSB gave me any more noticeable capacity than the 55Ah Yellowtop - I used to comfortably get 2 - 3 days running the fridge with the Yellowtop when it was new.
I'm on the fence about going the simple option of replacing it with another identical SSB, or if it's time to start looking into the minefield of the Lithium & DC-DC charger route.
Are the SSB's still the current "go-to" option for running with the Traxide kit? Has anyone running an SSB auxiliary battery under the hood had a more positive result? Maybe my SSB was just not right from the start.
Hi Victim, how long does the system work with both batteries powering the fridge before the Traxide separates the cranking and auxiliary batteries?
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