Hi
For your info I had my front brake pads and disks replaced last year. The disks were a bit scored but did not have the thickness needed for machining.
2 Brake disks $250
Brake pads $200
Labour $190
Mike
Hello All,
Today we dropped the car for the 4th service.
Odometer reading 46,828
The car has never been off-road except for the training provided.
questions which are bothering me is how did the front discs get lipped and the bushes worn out by road driving at 47k...
I need advice on whether this is normal...and a car that is capable of off road .. has bushes stuffed at 47k ...
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi
For your info I had my front brake pads and disks replaced last year. The disks were a bit scored but did not have the thickness needed for machining.
2 Brake disks $250
Brake pads $200
Labour $190
Mike
Hi DVV,
Despite your low mileage, I suspect your car has mostly been driven around the city? Or at least in peak hour to/from Ingleburn? If so, then the stop/start nature of peak hour driving and braking on the freeway from 110 is probably the most arduous conditions your brakes could face. Far more arduous than, say, spending its days in low range on mountain tracks.
Replacing front disks at under 50,000km is perfectly normal for a city D4; they are a wear item after all. The lip is perfectly normal. From memory, you're allowed up to 2mm wear. You'll probably need to replace the rear disks in another year or so. Personally, I'd do it at the same time.
If you intend keeping the car for a long time, may I suggest you replace the transfer case and diff oils within the next 10,000kms and start an engine oil and filter replacement regime of every 6 months or 12,000km whichever comes first.
The hydro bushes on the front lower control arms are also a sacrificial wear item. These give you the sensational ride and control, so replacing them every three or four years is a small price to pay. I've just replaced mine for the first time at 90,000kms but most of my driving is country roads plus a bit of serious work in the divide.
All of the above service items are not that difficult to do yourself, though I admit you need a bit of mechanical know-how and the right tools. Either that or find a decent Indy.
2013 D4 expedition equipped
1966 Army workshop trailer
(previously SII 2.25 swb, SIII 2.25 swb & lwb, P38 Vogue, 1993 LSE 3.9V8 then HS2.8)
From my experience, City and urban driving can be pretty arduous, especially on the transmission too. As a preventative measure would be looking at a full flush and steel pan upgrade in the future too.
Lower control arms and their bushes are a known weak spot, the hydro (oil filled) bushes just aren’t up for the job of longevity, but as stated give great ride feel. Probably cheaper to replace the complete arm than mucking about with re bushing, at least that’s what most do.
re brakes, the oem rotors are very soft (relatively) and wear out quite quick, the trade off being great braking power for a vehicle weighing close to 3tonne. Easy enough to replace yourself (if so inclined), there are some great options available. I’ve just done my second set of brake rotors and pads in 191000km, and now on RDA slotted rotorsRDA Brakes, The Big Brakes Company. | Products - Rotors and TRW pads. Home
Parts
Brakes
Brake Pads
TRW Cotec Brake Pad Set GDB1834
Much better than oem IMHO (diy install).
saw the “cracked engine cover” note- that’s a new one.
Get them to check the clearance to the top radiator hose, as the cover rubs on it and has been known to cut through, leaving you with no coolant.
also, front and rear sway bar bushes get harsh, I’m about to do the second set of those as well.
Well for what it is worth my 07 RRS has covered 175,000km and it is still on its original suspension bushes - they do make a little noise but are not clunkers but will need attention soon. Original front disks were replaced at 150,000km and still had 1mm wear to go. Rears are still the original OEM disks and still within wear limits.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
At 12k everything is still well within spec, it’s a good intermediate step between the original 24k. Therefore maintaining the easy to follow main service schedule.
My 16.5 D4 has factory service at 26K. This also appears in the service manual although its a bit vague. 24K is for older D4s. Not sure when they changed the distance. My Indi put the service at 13K which I do by just changing filter and oil.
2016.5 TDV6 Graphite D4,Corris Grey,APT sliders,Goe air comp plate,UHF & HF radio,Airflow snorkel,Discrete Winch,Compo rims with 265/65/18 Wildpeak AT3W, LLAMs,Traxide dual battery,EAS emergency kit,Mitch Hitch EGR blank & delete,ECU remap
Yep, std factory interval is 24k kms for older D4s but the general consensus is thats too long. Most on here run 6months /10000km for std oil services
Agree general consensus is such, however most is anecdotal and belief.
I’m a strong believer in Oil analysis and data.
When doing analysis on 24k intervals the oil was still in specification, just didn’t have much left in reserve.
A lot of the useable life depends on application - city driving is the absolute worst for oil longevity.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! | Search All the Web! | 
|---|
|  |  | 
Bookmarks