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Thread: Air strut questions

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Forrestfield WA
    Posts
    1,270
    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post

    Whilst Duckworths might think that the Delphi should be the same shock, the Delphi that I fitted were nothing like the genuine D4 set that I purchased from Duckworths, neither in damping nor longevity.
    I found the same as Graeme with the Delphi shocks. They weren't even better than the ones I took off the rear which were shot at well over 100,000km. I ended up replacing all four with genuine imported from the UK a year or so later, as I couldn't stand the wallowy ride with the Delphi's on the rear. Mine was a 2010 D4 but the Delphi's said D3 on the box, so I can only assume that the D4 shocks are a lot better than D3 shocks if Delphi shocks are supposed to be equivalent to OEM!
    Bob

    2010 D4 3.0TDV6 SE, ediff, LLAMS, 5 x GOE wheels, LT285/60R18 BFG K02's, GOE Compressor Guard, LR Tank, Mitch Hitch, ECB Bull Bar, Kaymar Rear Bar, Traxide, Safari Snorkel.
    2019 Discovery 5 SDV6 SE, 20 inch wheels

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, South Australia
    Posts
    2,720
    OEM doesn’t mean “same as Genuine”.
    All it means is made by an OE supplier.

    Where LR may have a high QA/QC on pets supplied, the tolerances etc on the same aftermarket offering may be simply all the units the “didn’t meet LR spec”.

    Some OEM parts are even found to be the old part, not the current revised versions where improvements may have been made.
    Cheers
    Tombie

    D4 MY11 - Stormy

    D90 MY15 - Ike
    D2 TD5

    Tesla Cybertruck Tri-Motor AWD On order...due 2021
    Gone - D1 AZZKIKR - 5.0L Supercharged with the lot
    Gone - Tombraider Defender - Lara
    Two wheels
    2007 Suzuki M109R LE
    2020 Suzuki Katana

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    10,060
    Simply using a lower quality oil and seals for non-geniune versions can make a big difference, let alone if the vehicle manufacturer has restricted the use of the valving for which they paid to be developed.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,819
    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    OEM doesn’t mean “same as Genuine”.
    All it means is made by an OE supplier.

    Where LR may have a high QA/QC on pets supplied, the tolerances etc on the same aftermarket offering may be simply all the units the “didn’t meet LR spec”.

    Some OEM parts are even found to be the old part, not the current revised versions where improvements may have been made.
    These aren't even stated as Original Equipment Manufacturer - the actual brand of the strut is "OEM" which gives me even less faith that they will be a quality product. But the guy at TRSpares said thats all they use, and they seem to have a good reputation. That, combined with the fact i need them before the weekend, means I was eilling to take a punt on them.

    I may be looking for genuine shocks in a month or 2...
    '08 D3 4.0 V6 :) - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims.
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,464
    Quote Originally Posted by Disco-tastic View Post
    Yeah. The hissing stops once the car has lowered partway, and the height stabilises. I figured it was the bag folding on itself. I jacked the car up off the chassis and as the wheel drooped the hissing started up again. Sticking my hand at the base of the bag i could feel the air coming out.

    The car still drives short distances without throwing an error but after about 6mins the compressor starts to get hot and it throws a code.

    I've also gotta get a license for my IID tool now too...
    I had almost the exact same issue on the front right on my D3 about a year into ownership.
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Blackburn, Victoria
    Posts
    95
    I'm in the market for 4 replacement struts for my MY12 hse D4, 195k on the clock. Just replaced LCAs for second time, front drop pins, sway arm bushes and rear radius arm bushes. Also looking at the lower steering slip shaft donut top determine if it's end of life.

    Regarding struts it's a big number for 4 genuine LR struts plus fitting (although I can fit myself) versus quality OEM. I'm trying to convince myself one way or another of the value of genuine over OEM.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Whyalla, South Australia
    Posts
    2,720
    I’d suggest if you were happy with the ride then stick with what you know.

    The expense is high but the kilometre/$ isn’t a bad thing to have the ride quality.
    Cheers
    Tombie

    D4 MY11 - Stormy

    D90 MY15 - Ike
    D2 TD5

    Tesla Cybertruck Tri-Motor AWD On order...due 2021
    Gone - D1 AZZKIKR - 5.0L Supercharged with the lot
    Gone - Tombraider Defender - Lara
    Two wheels
    2007 Suzuki M109R LE
    2020 Suzuki Katana

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    10,060
    Quote Originally Posted by BushDisco View Post
    Regarding struts it's a big number for 4 genuine LR struts plus fitting (although I can fit myself) versus quality OEM. I'm trying to convince myself one way or another of the value of genuine over OEM.
    I suggest that you get a quote including freight from Duckworths.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Blackburn, Victoria
    Posts
    95
    Thanks Graeme, Toombie. I'll be getting quotes for both before moving forward. I agree on the arguement of genuine, and yes $/km is a persuasive arguement. But if OEM is 90% as good for half the price then that's a big chunk of cash I can spend elsewhere or not at all.

    Then there's the decision on how long I keep a vehicle that is now nearly 8 years old with close to 200k. It's a great vehicle and realistically I can't think of a vehicle better suited to my lifestyle and needs, but at what point does it become a money pit? I always over service and have as a result not had a breakdown in over 15 years, but cars are getting more complex and more costly to maintain and to fix.

    Sorry, starting to meander. For cheaper parts it would be genuine every time, but...

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,819
    Quote Originally Posted by BushDisco View Post
    I'm in the market for 4 replacement struts for my MY12 hse D4, 195k on the clock. Just replaced LCAs for second time, front drop pins, sway arm bushes and rear radius arm bushes. Also looking at the lower steering slip shaft donut top determine if it's end of life.

    Regarding struts it's a big number for 4 genuine LR struts plus fitting (although I can fit myself) versus quality OEM. I'm trying to convince myself one way or another of the value of genuine over OEM.
    If you cant wait a couple of weeks i can report back with my impressions of the "OEM" brand. Take it with a grain of salt though as i havent ridden in a new D4

    Edit: and i bought D3 shocks so the D4 ones may feel completely different.
    '08 D3 4.0 V6 :) - 265/65/R17 on X5 rims.
    FINN - '72 88" S3 - 2.286 petrol - yet to go on it's first adventure
    GONE '96 D1 300Tdi - 2" lift, 32" tyres, HD rear axles, lockers :(

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