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Thread: Snapped bolt - chassis

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Snapped bolt - chassis

    While stripping the bumper from the D4 to fit the ARB bullbar one bolt snapped off inside the chassis

    the issue is it is one that is reused to fit the mounting bracket the bullbar sits on

    its an M8 bolt which is one of 6 that hold the bracket so I assume prettt important to fix.

    has as anyone had to overcome this before? Itís dead flush so no hope of grabbing it with anything and no access from the backside
    2011 Fuji White D4 w/ facelift front and tail lights, 2016 front bumper and grill.
    Black Pack interior trim - CB - Waeco Fridge - 3 Way Lift Rods - Rock Sliders - Pirelli ATR Plus 265/60/18. Nanocom Evo
    Northern Beaches Syd.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Kalgoorlie WA
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    5,199
    When I have to extract bolt that has snapped off flush, I usually find a nut that is around the same size or perhaps marginally smaller, place it over the snapped end of the bolt and weld the nut to the bolt (inside the nut). Fill the inside of the nut with weld and then, before it cools down too much, put a spanner or socket on the nut and wind the bolt out - it will nearly always come out with this process.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Give it a good dose of penetrol or wd40, that sort of product, leave it for 24 to 48 hours, meanwhile head down to the local tool shop and buy some GOOD QUALITY ( emphasis not shouting) easy outs, drill the correct diameter hole and you can use the easy out like a left hand cork screw.
    Gently does it, good luck.
    Peter
    MY13 D4 Nara Bronze HSE, Almond Interior, E-Diff, 20" for the road, 18" Compomotive for the fun stuff, Traxide, OL Bar, GAP IIDTool, Pioneer Tray, DAB+ and LOGIC 7 ICE retro-fit, Vintage SEV Marchal Driving lights (weird I know but what can I say)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMKal View Post
    When I have to extract bolt that has snapped off flush, I usually find a nut that is around the same size or perhaps marginally smaller, place it over the snapped end of the bolt and weld the nut to the bolt (inside the nut). Fill the inside of the nut with weld and then, before it cools down too much, put a spanner or socket on the nut and wind the bolt out - it will nearly always come out with this process.

    Thanks, I saw this tip on YouTube a minute ago only Iíve never welded anything in my life so I donít think my D4 is the place to start

    ill try the easy out, thanks!
    2011 Fuji White D4 w/ facelift front and tail lights, 2016 front bumper and grill.
    Black Pack interior trim - CB - Waeco Fridge - 3 Way Lift Rods - Rock Sliders - Pirelli ATR Plus 265/60/18. Nanocom Evo
    Northern Beaches Syd.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Adelaide Hills. South Australia
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    3,437
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterJ View Post
    Give it a good dose of penetrol or wd40, that sort of product, leave it for 24 to 48 hours, meanwhile head down to the local tool shop and buy some GOOD QUALITY ( emphasis not shouting) easy outs, drill the correct diameter hole and you can use the easy out like a left hand cork screw.
    Gently does it, good luck.
    Peter
    If it is a High Tensile bolt & I suspect it will be due to it's duty, you may have a bit of a fight on your hands when drilling the centre hole, so Centre Punching accurately will be paramount to get it spot on. The smaller the bolt & hole the more difficult it will be but with care you might just fluke it.

    Easi-Outs work fine for me, just take the care & don't rush it.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Mona Vale
    Posts
    524
    Thanks, itís quite small and obviously very stuck as the bolt didnít move a mm and the head just came off first attempt.

    Stay tuned
    2011 Fuji White D4 w/ facelift front and tail lights, 2016 front bumper and grill.
    Black Pack interior trim - CB - Waeco Fridge - 3 Way Lift Rods - Rock Sliders - Pirelli ATR Plus 265/60/18. Nanocom Evo
    Northern Beaches Syd.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    FWIW. A trick taught to me yonks ago in my Refrigeration Trade is before starting to undo a bolt or a nut, very slightly tighten it. Still works for me when I need it to.

    This breaks the thread free but without snapping said bolt.
    Of course always try & apply WD40, CR stuff before hand & let sit for a few minutes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
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    Posts
    524
    Lesson learnt.
    I resolved the issue thankfully, with a fresh set of eyes today I managed to pull a few things apart to get access to the rear and twist it out.

    Thanks for the tips!
    2011 Fuji White D4 w/ facelift front and tail lights, 2016 front bumper and grill.
    Black Pack interior trim - CB - Waeco Fridge - 3 Way Lift Rods - Rock Sliders - Pirelli ATR Plus 265/60/18. Nanocom Evo
    Northern Beaches Syd.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4bee View Post
    Of course always try & apply WD40, CR stuff before hand & let sit for a few minutes.
    Chemsearch Yield is far and away better than those. Of course, it is expensive but you get what you pay for.

    A good way is to have a set of reverse helix drills and a reversible drill. The thrust generated by the cutting action will in most cases simply wind out the offending broken stud.
    URSUSMAJOR

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukeis View Post
    Lesson learnt.
    I resolved the issue thankfully, with a fresh set of eyes today I managed to pull a few things apart to get access to the rear and twist it out.

    Thanks for the tips!

    Yep that works sometimes if you just bugger off back to the house & sit down with a Cuppa Tea, then when you return to the problem you amaze yourself to find that it wasn't really a problem after all.

    It is marvelous what a few wet tea Leaves can do.


    Ask me about the time I tried to fit a flat 7 ribbed belt to the front of my olde D1 V8.

    No better not. My wife had a look at my struggle suggested I put a suitable ring spanner on the Alternator nut/tensioner & use it as leverage to lessen the distance between the pulleys against spring pressure. My words not hers, you understand.

    Sez me as you do, "I was just going to do that". And so I did. Didn't have a Service Manual back then.

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