Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

You’ve got to get the inner male part to lift up a few mm to get a tool under the head and that takes the majority of time. Once that’s up they come out easy.

Correct.the trim clip removal tool i use does just that.

See similar below Toledo Trim Removal Set 2 Piece | Supercheap Auto

RH rear door doesn’t lock with the remote.
Bit of searching here learned about failing actuator with link to YT how to replace.
Great resource as always.

Finally my mates over in China have sent over the motors for the rear door locking actuators.

Works a treat and didn’t take as long to dismantle this time.

I made sure I got myself spares this time..

Reference:
Red is passive entry motor
Green is main lock/unlock motor(frequent failure)
Blue is the dead lock.

The green is what needs to be replaced and is referred to the Large motor. It is what is mostly used to lock and unlock the actuator.

The large passive entry motor which some models may not have is what helps you when the green fail. For example, when the green is no longer functioning, if you unlock the failing door but grasping the door handle using the keyless entry feature, the actuator will unlock using this red motor. Saves you from swearing bloody LR!

The blue is seldom used and is referred to small motor which holds the lock in place when you dead lock it.

Originally Posted by imaz

Finally my mates over in China have sent over the motors for the rear door locking actuators.

Works a treat and didn’t take as long to dismantle this time.

Nice work, but holy smokes that's a massive amount of grease. Was that an aftermarket lock originally?

Originally Posted by BradC

Nice work, but holy smokes that's a massive amount of grease. Was that an aftermarket lock originally?

After market motor your mean? I only replaced the failing motor. If you should learn anything, don’t get genuine that is.

You can never have enough of lube.. it’s on the moving parts and not just the gears.

Originally Posted by imaz

After market motor your mean? I only replaced the failing motor. If you should learn anything, don’t get genuine that is.

No, I meant there's a huge amount of grease in that mechanism and on the back of the motor that I've never seen in a genuine lock assembly. I was wondering if it was an aftermarket lock assembly.

I also have Chinese replacement motors, but after dismantling and comparing them against the originals, the genuine ones have more robust brush assemblies. I don't expect the Chinese replacements to last near as long as the originals. Still at a handful of bucks each I can afford to replace them.

Originally Posted by BradC

No, I meant there's a huge amount of grease in that mechanism and on the back of the motor that I've never seen in a genuine lock assembly. I was wondering if it was an aftermarket lock assembly.

I also have Chinese replacement motors, but after dismantling and comparing them against the originals, the genuine ones have more robust brush assemblies. I don't expect the Chinese replacements to last near as long as the originals. Still at a handful of bucks each I can afford to replace them.

I put a bit of grease on the back of the motor where the silver disc kept sliding out of the plastic channel. Stupid by design, but that is LR for you. Hopefully with the grease there it remains in tack. Dropped it several times already. Perhaps I went overboard with the grease.

I dont have anything to compare since the originals I had taken out have worned brushes - not a good comparison...

Originally Posted by imaz

After market motor your mean? I only replaced the failing motor. If you should learn anything, don’t get genuine that is.

You can never have enough of lube.. it’s on the moving parts and not just the gears.

what is the relative cost of replacement motors vs an aftermarket assembly?
presumably a lot.
Thanks