Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

A small glass jar with male and female quick connects in the lid would sit perfectly inline where the current join in the vacuum pipe is between NRV and booster.

Then again mine lasted 14 years so not bad.

It's also not necessarily liquid oil. Oil vapor transports nicely and then condenses in the booster.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

New RRS booster fitted and have brakes again. As the ShaneShed video shows you can safely flex the ABS unit and master cylinder well out of the way to change out the booster quite easily without having to spill a drop or bleed brakes as the workshop manual suggests.

The old booster had definitely failed and shows evidence of oil inside but was by no means carrying a lot of oil.

Removed and checked the vacuum lines and they were almost squeaky clean and NRV function is perfect. I didn’t touch the pump as with engine running and pipe disconnected there was heaps of suction.

Since the vacuum pump sucks the only logical explanation is that oil vapour sneaks past the NRV with engine off. It’s hard to imagine otherwise how oil gets in there.

Did you have the recall fix done on this about 12 years ago - mine was recalled in Dec 2010 to have the oil in the booster problem fixed and the injector pump recall also done.

I know the booster recall was not the solution for a few but for most it worked fine - no issues with mine in 12 years of ownership.

Originally Posted by 101RRS

Did you have the recall fix done on this about 12 years ago - mine was recalled in Dec 2010 to have the oil in the booster problem fixed and the injector pump recall also done.

I know the booster recall was not the solution for a few but for most it worked fine - no issues with mine in 12 years of ownership.

It was done prior to my purchase in mid 2010.

Pop the connector apart in front of the booster and see if you see any oil drip out of the vac line.

Edit: now I’ve driven it a bit I reckon the RRS booster upgrade is 20-30% more powerful. Stopping power is really improved. It could be because the old one was fading. I always thought when I changed to the Akebono pads that the brakes lost a lot of bite but it was worth it. It’s like it’s back to before and better now.

Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster

Or intake plenum split. I had that. Split where the Y element meets the throttle body.

Read the fault code (P006A) and had a look under the engine cover… split manifold by the look… about $2200 worth when I had the driver’s side replaced last year





I have it booked in next week for belts and was planning on doing alternator and water pump at the same time. Looking like an expensive service…

When the lh one on my 3.0 went, I replaced both manifolds, the logic being both have seen the same number of thermal and pressure cycles. From memory it was about 1400-1600 all up to do both and took them half a day.

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

When the lh one on my 3.0 went, I replaced both manifolds, the logic being both have seen the same number of thermal and pressure cycles. From memory it was about 1400-1600 all up to do both and took them half a day.

Yes, makes sense Eric and I did toy with the idea but the saving to do both at the same time wasn’t huge so I took a gamble. It has lasted another 14 months so I’m ok with that. If I had have been planning to travel anywhere remote I would have done both.

That price seems very low. Was that recent?

David

doing new front brake pads and oil/filter change after work.
Going to Penrite HPR 5 5W-40.