Tough times at the moment. Everything cracking under pressure [emoji51]Quote:
Originally Posted by RHS58
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Tough times at the moment. Everything cracking under pressure [emoji51]Quote:
Originally Posted by RHS58
Tuffant actually make a similar item 1/4 Wheel Winder Adapter for Discovery 4 (Late Model) | TuffAnt alternatively if you have to replace the wheel winder a D3 unit still has the wheel nut type drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve86
Hi all,
Took the opportunity to replace my cracked upper brake light - 2 days, as planned -
Day 1 - masking tape wherever I thought paint may be damaged - drilled a few holes, enough to poke small multigrips through and start the cracking/removal process - then 'graduated' to small sharp flat screwdriver and rubber mallet to remove the stuck bits. That left a border of thick rubbery sealant - obviously done by hand on a Friday afternoon! Disconnected the electical connections etc.
Intrigued by the interesting box under the plastic - turned out to be the GPS transmitter!
Day 2 - renewed any bits of masking tape and gingerly tapped the sealant line with an old 2" paint scraper and small rubber mallet - stopped every 2 hours for a change of scenery etc. Late afternoon, reconnected the electrics, checked all working OK and then carefully applied the new sealant - wife had to hold the new unit as the connectors too short to place alongside - then it was the marriage of new unit with new sealant - 4 house bricks on a teatowel to weigh it down for 24 hours.
All good - patience rules - tap, tap tap!!
Attachment 181484
What sealant did you use as it’s very specific I understand. I had a Windscreen O’Brien shop do mine. First time it fell off. Now several years later it’s loose on one side. It’s same product as what windscreens are stuck in with I think.Quote:
Originally Posted by hiker
Used Sikaflex 260N - horrible stuff if you're not used to it.
Applied to both surfaces, as opposed to just the car - bit of overkill, but why not, hopefully its a once only job!
The only reason it cracked was me misjudging a low hanging aircon duct in a carpark and reversed into a protruding bolt - bugger!
100% what happened to mine a fire main in work car park - wifey borrowed car one day and decided to back in - fine if you drive in like I’d done for years. At least it was a bullseye hit and no panel damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by hiker
Getting the glue to bond is very tricky it seems.
After having a new replacement myself that was fitted by my local windscreen man it flew off after a few weeks and broke into pieces, I fitted a new one myself using Silicone after testing on the broken bits and getting a good bond. It is still nice and firm after 3+ years. (The windscreen man paid for the new one but refused to fit it again by the way) NickQuote:
Originally Posted by hiker
Did mine. Used Sikaflex, not an issue and never fell off [emoji2369]Quote:
Originally Posted by PerthDisco
227 Sika works a charm
Orange warning symbol made its appearance the other day, inspection found the interior front pads were worn to there advised limit. Interesting there was a massive discrepancy in the amount or wear on the interior and exterior pads. Rotors were badly lipped on both the ID and OD of the running surfaces.
I purchase Bendix DB2203HD pads and found that when installed with the lipped rotors they were riding on the rotor OD lip because the new pads were a mm wider.
Procrastination and DR Google made me take the decision to remove the lips using a 100mm grinding disc. With care this was a fairly simple task after removing the rotors and placing them on a flat working surface.
After the lips removal I confirmed the rotor thickness was still in excess of the 27mm recommended minimum rotor thickness.
Reassembly produced a result where the new pads are now contacting the full swept area of the rotors.
If the readies were a little more abundant I think I would have replaced the rotors.
Have other owners experienced uneven pad wear?
