Check you calliper is sliding free and not partially seized. Pads should have even pressure.
Printable View
Last week I had metal on metal contact on front right brake.
On removal front outer was metal on metal, front inner was still 4mm. Usual cause is caliper not sliding but I reassembled with out pads and the caliper slid no issue and the pins were all still greased from last pad change.
The front passenger side brake with the sensor are still 4mm so no issues there. My only guess is that the disk or pad on the right outer had an issue.
Garry
There are thoughts that the disc pad anti rattle springs should be lubricated to facilitate better movement of the pads within the caliper. I advocate some skepticism based upon possible tracking of the lubricant onto the rotor surface and the longevity of the lubricant when exposed to road grime and water. The important process is to ensure the caliper pins and boots are clean and well lubricated.
Progressed the ARB compressor installation in the rear quarter panel area.
In the interim I had planned to use the hot battery feed to the trailer to run the compressor but discovered the fuse on that circuit was downgraded from 30A to 15A. Very quickly worked that out. Also have fitted an Engel panel mount connector for the car fridge in the same panel. Still looking for better power for both so might need to reach out to #Drivesafe for a dual Battery kit with power feed to the back.
Some photos for fun, albeit just read that Drivesafe is in a spot of bother due to manufacturing issues.
Attachment 181501Attachment 181502Attachment 181503Attachment 181505
Great to hear Tim. Will reach out for details shortly as I am keen for an install in the drivers side battery box as want to share the weight evenly. Have space there but of course some massaging required.
simon
Care package from advanced factors arrived today, lots of bushes,track rod kit and some liquid gold TC fluid.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...019173dc52.jpg