What happened to your D3/D4 today?

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Originally Posted by shanegtr

On Sunday morning I found my D3 had a flat cranking battery. Charged it up and it started straight away, however failed again at the next start attempt. Turns out the battery is now dead, and just on 2yrs old too. Looks to me to be caused by the redarc DC-DC charger remaining active after shut down and with a fridge left in the car on Saturday night its kept drawing power from the cranking battery. That night was all it took to kill the battery. Looking back on my battery trends (bluetoooth battery monitor) from my trip away at the start of Jan I could see the main battery volts taking a hit each night - but in those cases we where hooked to the main battery in my camper trailer so seems like there wasn't the same drawing down of power from the main battery as Sat night.

I changed the main battery 2yrs ago as a preventitive measure as I had a flat battery while we where camping then, but Im starting to think the issue of the DCDC charger may have been around then, but I didn't have the bluetooth battery monitors then so wouldn't have picked it up. Still had that battery in the shed so I've put it back in with no more issues.

I've sorted the DCDC charger now as for what ever reason a previous owner of my D3 had put in one of the old school redarc smart isolators, so just wired the DCDC charger to be powered from that.

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They used to go open circuit to protect the mains at 12.7v, should have been over kill. Unless it was wired backwards, seen a couple of them

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Originally Posted by josh.huber

They used to go open circuit to protect the mains at 12.7v, should have been over kill. Unless it was wired backwards, seen a couple of them

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No idea on how its wired. Been in the car since I've owned it and as long as its been working I haven't had any reason to mess with it (until now). I have wanted to rip out all the auxillary wiring and redo it for years, just never gotten around to it.

The other day I removed the prospeed roof rack, polished and cleaned the whole car, fitted the shovel and maxtrax mounts and put it all back together, ready for a good week on the SA coast

Whilst refitting winch, I have found a small weep on the LH corner of the Radiator. Vehicles still driveable so no issues there (although I'm using my LV in the interim)

Its been 12 years and 185,000km. I'm more than happy with that lifespan on a Plastic / Ally unit.

I've got the new radiator on its way, and will do the water inlet whilst i'm in there.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Its been 12 years and 185,000km. I'm more than happy with that lifespan on a Plastic / Ally unit.

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Pretty acceptable on an old brass one as well. When you consider the temp variances and vibrations these things endure it's remarkable how robust most of them are.

Gives me an excuse to use my new vacuum filler as well.

I’ve had it sitting here, going to coolant change the RRS and then get into replacing my radiator when it arrives…

Started to get the vehicle raising slowly error so time to swap in my original rebuilt compressor, good time to fit the goe compressor guard as well.
Remembered to slot the bracket top bolt hole this time.
Changed the transfer case fluid but after draining I only got 1L out, not sure if it had been changed before as I don't have any leaks.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...567065f68d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e928806ea1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...34fd591190.jpg

Finally received some orange LED's for the front indicators. Dunno if mine is different to others, but the globes that everyone states are the correct ones for my model Disco (and 2 different suppliers have sent me) are the wrong ones for my car - they simply do not fit, and the "contacts" for mine are in opposing sides of the base, not in the bottom.

Anyhow, now that I have my new LED globes, I've discovered that the original left indicator globe was probably not blown at all. Yesterday when looking at something else on the car, I found that none of the lights in the left hand headlight assembly work at all. No headlight, hi or low beam, no signature lights, and no indicator. I haven't had time to pull the assembly out yet, but I'm assuming either a problem with the main plug / connector on the back, or a faulty earth. I haven't been driving at night for a while now, so not in any great rush to fix it - hopefully in the next few days or so if the weather cools down, but I'm painting the house at the moment. The indicators in the bullbar still work normally, and I have some fancy LED DRL/Indicator strips running under and up the side edge of the headlight assemblies, so no problems with roadworthy (as long as I don't turn on the headlights.

It's due for a service soon and I've told the people who look after it that I want it to get a major going over, as we're hopefully planning a trip east later this year. So I have a set of silicon hoses from Alisport sitting in the shed ready to go into it.

I've been doing a couple of small consulting jobs for a couple of the mines around here, and driving the vehicle on site. They wanted me to fit light bar with rear high mount indicator / brake lights and a flashing strobe light on it to comply with minesite regs. I fitted these slimline LED's to the back rail of the roofrack, and have a magnetic base orange strobe light I can throw up there when needed with a lead that plugs into one of the 12 volt sockets in the back. Buggered if I was going to put one of their light "bars" up on top of everything - and they seem happy with what I have done.

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The old girl is still looking good for a 2011 model.

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Took a punt on a cheap AliExpress CarPlay module and am mightily impressed. It replaces the navigation interface - thus accessed through the NAV button or the navigation screen (bottom right of screen).
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My factory Bluetooth audio has worked flawlessly and sound quality is excellent, so I was a bit concerned about the sound quality from this. I had previously tried a complete android head unit replacement (also from Ali) but the sound quality from the aux was so bad - unusable - I didn't even finish the installation before pulling it out. For me - the main motivation was to have better mapping (waze, google and OSM mostly) and a more sophisticated music interface to control Spotify - and to keep my phone out of sign out of mind. Without losing access to the native control system for 4x4 and reversing cameras and the likes.

For complete reliability I deleted the phone from the native Land Rover music player Bluetooth and set the audio to AUX. There was no discernible difference in sound quality. The only downside being that the steering wheel skip forward and back controls don't work in auxiliary input- but volume does, and all the other steering wheel controls are unaffected.
However I have worked out - with varying reliability and results - that I can still stream the music to the native Land Rover Bluetooth music player, while connected via CarPlay and thus steering wheel controls still work and I can still control Spotify by the CarPlay screen. A bit more testing is required.

Likewise I have found the native Land Rover phone system to be exceptional. people often comment that it's clear and no background noise. I didn't want CarPlay to handle the audio/microphone for phone calls. So far it seems to still be using the Land Rover Bluetooth phone despite answering phone calls via CarPlay. Hopefully it just stays that way!

The one thing I am having trouble with is changing phones. It connects really well, almost straight away to my wireless Apple CarPlay or my partners wireless Android Auto. The problem is trying to change once connected. If I try to change from the home screen it says to disconnect phone first but there's no easy way to do this from the screen and so far has involved turning Wi-Fi and Bluetooth off on the respective phone.

Nice one - what does the interface look like? Before you get to CarPlay I mean?