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The shaft seals are very good these days,well,they have been since all the Environ regs came in.A weep there can mean the comp is worn.Quote:
Originally Posted by RANDLOVER
Pin holes in the evap, are not uncommon.
Often the dye is as helpful as a wooden leg in a bushfire.
A latest generation, top of the range, infrared leak detector is the go.
I’m fingers crossed [emoji41] it’s been untouched since delivery, the degradation in performance has been very gradual.
Hopefully just time bleeding it down slowly.
If there’s a small leak, I’m sure I’ll know it sooner than later.
It was only 43 degrees yesterday, so i decided it would be a good time to perform an oil service.
New oil (5w40 Enviro+ Penrite), fresh oil filter from Ryco/Repco and a fresh air filter. Skipped the fuel filter this time - frankly, it was too hot for that ****.
Inspired by LRTime, I checked through the oil filter, and found nothing at all. Given basically every second video i watch has a bottle of glitter in his filter, i'm quite happy with that.
Also pulled the little air box in front of the throttle body off, as I had noticed it was crooked, and weeping oil onto the nearby water hose. Some creative cutting away of one of the ribs and it all looks much happier now. Didn't get any codes or restricted performance events, but I think it was only a matter of time.
2025 marks the start of my 9th year of Disco ownership - I never expected I would be so involved under the bonnet of the car! (and also thankful the other car is an electric that needs absolutely no attention at all)
That little air box aka the “intake duct”, part number LR014212 get small cracks where the wire retainer/plastic meet. This causes it to flex and then leak. Best thing I did was replace mine to stop it leaking oilQuote:
Originally Posted by veebs
I'll definitely go back and take a second look, though I had the issue described here:Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
https://youtu.be/MAqNKIzBNeI'si=hEDSAOBm8ubpvrbZ&t=170
and here
https://youtu.be/bSdo48uB438'si=I-bz-TefYBP0kkvm&t=385
Filing that rib away, and repositioning the clamp has meant it all aligns much better (daylight visible between now)
Came home from a couple of weeks away and the D3.......................started! [bigrolf]
Pulled the little tin tent home from Denmark. ~420Km. Oil temp sat mid 120s most of the way except a particularly hilly section where it was ~134C for quite a while.
That's bulk sump temp, so it's going to be considerably warmer in the bearings. I'd love to see a load carrying comparison of a 30 vs 40 weight oil at those temps.
Anyway, another holiday out the way and managed to get home with the oil pump, timing belt tensioner and crank all in one piece and where they should be. Win!
Fitting an electronic pressure sender is dead easy on the TDV6. Replace the pressure switch with a T, screw the pressure sender into the side of the T in the gap between the water outlet and the intake manifold and replace the long neck pressure switch with a short one to keep the top of the switch at the original height so that it doesn't stick up high and that the original wire still reaches.Quote:
Originally Posted by BradC
An oil pressure gauge is certainly something I've thought about a great deal and something I've always added to vehicles that didn't have it in the past. To be honest, I'm not entirely sure what info it'd really buy me other than reassurance of meeting some minimum level of oil pressure. The presence of piston squirters means the pressure will always be lower than I'd traditionally like to see. Really there only has to be enough pressure to ensure the oil snakes its way through the crank to the big ends.
I tend to think having a gauge in the cabin would tend to terrify me more than be usefully informative. That and I have nowhere to mount a gauge.
One thing I would like to see is a spec on the squirters. Our Volvo marine diesels have squirters, but they have pressure valves to ensure they keep a minimum level of gallery pressure and the manual actually lists what that is. Makes it a bit more informative when checking running pressures.
I check pressure for hot idle before switching-off and when in hot weather I feel the engine starting work at low revs in top gear ascending rises to decide whether or not to drop a gear, as pressure approaching 100kph can vary quite a lot depending on temperature. I started with the kit's round dial gauge which was difficult to see and the scale for low pressures was useless, so built my own using a small OLED display then fitted it to a small black plastic box. It sits in front of the bottom right of the instrument cluster where the very clear OLED digits are similar in size and brightness to the instrument cluster digits. I included a LDR in the circuit to adjust the brightness in low light, with very similar timing to the instrument cluster.