Thanks for the detail.
My ARB Zero 40l does around 23-25ah at 2° most days edging up to 28ah when it’s over 36° outside
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Thanks for the detail.
My ARB Zero 40l does around 23-25ah at 2° most days edging up to 28ah when it’s over 36° outside
The whine is starting to really get to me and I'm worried it'll lock up and result in a flat bed ride (A Disco in its natural habitat). The stethoscope seems to think it's the A/C compressor pulley. I hope it is, because at $250 delivered it's an expensive gamble. In reality I probably could have pulled the old one off, pressed out the bearing, located a replacement and put it back together. Instead I fired the parts canon. $500 delivered for a genuine from LR-Direct, so $250 for a Delco from Poland doesn't feel that bad. Cheaper than a new compressor. I'm just hoping that it's the pulley bearing rather than the compressor main bearing, or power steering, water pump or fan hub.
I wasn't wrong in replacing the Alternator. The rear bearing is crunchy. At 250kk it was probably due a new one anyway.
Probably should have spent $50 on a short belt to be absolutely sure, but I'll know in a couple of weeks.
If it is, I'll replace the bearing in the old one and chuck it in a box. I'm sure it'll come in handy some day (even if not for me).
Waved to a ratty D2, and got a wave back.
First wave I've got from a Land Rover since getting the D4
Tony
It passed it's annual rego inspection - for the last time. NT are doing away with annual roadworthy inspections from 1 Jan.
Blew up a speaker in the rear door (having previously upgraded to Logic7 amp, so not overly surprising haha). So, I ordered a full set of the L7 speakers out of UK, and installed. I was surprised at how much beefier the L7 units are compared to the Harmon Kardon (I think mid-tier?) versions they replaced. Much bigger magnet and thicker/wider cone surrounds. The rear ones are silver in colour too, so you can see them behind the grilles.
Holy moly there is some bass in the sound now! Still need to swap out the sub, though I don't anticipate that making as big a difference. Adding the extra speaker to the front doors also fills the sound out brilliantly (middle tier sound has a bass and tweeter only, which is now a bigger bass driver, the same tweeter plus a newly added mid).
It's no audiophile experience, and I know that - still a 15 year old car with road noise and awkward speaker placement for best sound. However, the kids certainly appreciate the way Huntr/x Golden now makes the whole car pump :)
How did you go about this? What needs to be swapped out?Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
For 2010-2011 (I think), the door cards have a plastic blanking section that you would need to cut out in order for the extra speaker to be mounted. My door cards were stuffed on top, and rather than fixing that, I ordered two 'new' ones from Triumph, from L7 equipped cars (I wanted the badges). That meant as a bonus, the extra speaker was already installed, skipping the whole cutting process.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Once there is somewhere to mount the extra speakers, you need to rewire the doors, as the stock setup is a single line running to the door, which splits to drive both the bass and tweeter in the door. The L7 setup is two lines to the door - one that drives mid and tweeter, and a second that drives just the bass.
I ran an extra cable to the door (through the footwells and door grommet thing) and used that to drive the bass. The existing cable was cut after the split to divert from the bass to the new mid. The new cable was then spliced to the cut wire to drive the bass. Splicing the cables meant I could retain the existing speaker plugs (which turned out to be a stroke of genius, given I needed to replace them only a month or two later, and this made it a plug and play experience).
The new mid drivers I didn't have the OEM plug for, so I soldered directly to the speaker, and added my own plug from Jaycar to allow the card to still be removed if needed.
That process obviously repeats for both front doors.
I bought new D pillar covers with the surround speakers in them, and soldered a pigtail with plug to these too. I ran cables from them to the front of the car along the right door sill.
There is an additional mid speaker in the centre of the dash - the cable and plug mercifully already exists, so that is just popping the grille off, adding the speaker and seal, then replacing the grille. The cable runs to the driver footwell, where it needs to be extended to the amp location under the driver seat. The extra cables from the doors and D pillars also get pulled through to that point.
I bought a Logic 7 amp out of the US, and paid slightly over the average price to get one where the seller had chopped the cables, rather than unplugging. This had two benefits: The fibre module would be more likely dust and scratch free, and I had extra plug pins I could extract and add to my car.
I spliced in the pins to the new cables I had run (4 from the door cards, 4 from the D pillars, and two from the centre, bearing in mind with audio, there is a + and - to run for each) plus, needed to repin a few existing cables that were moving from one plug to another on the amp. (the green plug has larger pins than the grey from memory)
Plug everything in and test - incredibly before updating the CCF it started working just fine (the amp is obviously hard-wired to specific speakers at specific pins).
Updating the CCF to Amp type 4 meant I got the Logic 7 option on the headunit, which when enabled, starts driving the Centre driver and D pillars to make the sound seemingly come from the dash itself, rather than the door - this is the 'surround' effect the brochure promises.
All in all, it's not for the faint hearted, and I did this over the course of a few weekends. You definitely need to be comfortable with a soldering iron.
I stole the diagram attached to help in repinning, and read a bit on Cambo (Old Jaguar)'s facebook page and Disco3 forums to give some comfort I could do it. I studied the workshop manual wiring diagram to make sure the new speakers were the same diameter as the OEM spec (I overshot a few, but figure going bigger is OK - smaller is a risk to resistance).
All parts were sourced used through eBay, generally out of the UK. I collected them over the course of a few months, just keeping an eye out for good deals. There are a few out there offering the entire speaker packages, which I would do next time, rather than opening the doors up multiple times as I ended up doing.
Cool. I was most interested in if there were any changes to the head unit as I’ve got the Cambo CarPlay on my HSE I don’t want to lose/have to move over. I might take a look at this for mine. Thanks [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs
Fair enough - no changes to the head unit, in fact, the dash didn't even need disassembly, beyond some minor panels on the sides to feed cables to the doors. I have the same CarPlay unit, going strong!Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
Oh mine isn’t since I got an iPhone 17 pro max. Cabled it wouldn’t work anymore. Comms issues. Tried a dozen different cables, no better. Got an Ottocast and that solved it.Quote:
Originally Posted by veebs