New upper & lower front control arms, new rear rotors and pads, EPB sensor, and a service.
The front end is really nice and right now. It feels quite different to drive plus no annoying suspension squeak.
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						Super ModeratorToday we replaced the fuel burning heater with a second hand unit from the motherland.
Ebay global shipping rort confiscated the first one for reasons unknown, but the second identical unit made it through. Wasn't a huge job. Drop ~10L of coolant, replace heater and replace coolant.
A significant amount of time was spent dealing with a spinning rivnut in the chassis, but most of it went in search of a 10mm socket that disappeared into the twilight zone. Over an hour pulling covers off to come to the conclusion it was stuck somewhere awkward, and 5 minutes with a borescope and flexible magnet to locate/retrieve.
Then put all the covers back on with a liberal application of profanity.
I'm not quite sure what to do with the rivnut. I can't get it out. I'm considering silver soldering it in place but then I thought about a tack weld too. It's an M6 nut, but must be full of corrosion so when I screwed an M6 bolt into it the bolt wedged and when trying to remove it the nut just spins. It's holding the bolt now although the bracket isn't tight against the chassis. I'll have to sort it at some point.
Part HN1 : JEC500820 - Land Rover Heater | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts
It's a bugger to get to if I have to drill it out and replace it.
Last edited by BradC; 31st July 2022 at 03:36 PM.
New upper & lower front control arms, new rear rotors and pads, EPB sensor, and a service.
The front end is really nice and right now. It feels quite different to drive plus no annoying suspension squeak.
"Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"
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						Super ModeratorOn the recommendation of my neighbour who spends his whole life repairing fasteners that were either made from gouda or destroyed by ham fisted hacks (like me) I've gone with Loctite 680. I might even let it cure for a couple of days before having a go.
I managed to get the bolt out and that allowed me to wiggle and spin it around enough to ensure the loctite gets in there.
The theory is that should hold it enough to allow chasing the threads and then re-seating the insert. If that fails, he's got the whole kit so we'll punch this one in and fit a new one. I just don't like the idea of the remaining bit rattling around inside the chassis rail, but will deal with that if it happens.
This one is certainly legacy of its early life in the UK.
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						SubscriberIs there anything that Loctite or Sikaflex can’t fix?
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
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						Subscriber Super Moderator
					
					
						Super ModeratorThis rivnut apparently. After 3 hours cure it succumbed to finger pressure. Still, was worth a try.
I've bodged it up enough to survive till the next service before Christmas, but to do it properly I need to pull the passenger front wheel off and liner out. Hrm, and I can see how that bodge can be improved with Sikaflex. That's tomorrows task.
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