Thread: What happened to your D3/D4 today?

Originally Posted by Discodicky

Several changes. It "holds" each gear on the upchange slightly longer by roughly 3-400 rpm.
As I understand, and if I was listening correctly, Cameron wanted to keep the rpm slightly higher as one of "the theories" of 3.0 litre crankshaft breakage is too much torque at too low rpm.

The trans changes slicker and before the change it sometimes couldn't decide if it wanted to be in 2nd or 3rd under certain circumstances, such as very light throttle application and going around an uphill corner at same time. It now knows, and is more 'definitive' with all shifts.

Downshifts are almost imperceptible now, as are upshifts depending on how much loud pedal you are using.

Kickdown is crisper.

He mentioned a slight change to the Torque Convertor lockup as well, I think.

His "mod" is based on late model XJ Jaguar I think he said.
I must confess I was only partly listening as I was too busy drooling over his XKR Jaguar...

Would be worth calling him to discuss.

Thanks for that Discodicky . I was keen to get some feed back from someone who had had it done, especially someone who tows a reasonably heavy van. Cambo's a genius with these cars, he did a major sound system upgrade for me a couple of years ago - fabulous job. I'll be talking to him real soon about the Trans remap.
Thanks again.

Originally Posted by Discodicky

Further to my recent post regarding my mainland trip, I have just got the results of my engine oil analysis after changing the oil/filter last week upon return. They are quite interesting and worth sharing with you.

Just a mention that I've worked out that on roughly a dozen occasions and only whilst climbing very steep hills (eg, Cunningham's Gap in 26 deg temp, and also up to Mt. Morgan from Rockhampton) the coolant fans came on at 106 deg coolant temp. As I don't have a GAP tool I have no idea what the oil temp got to, but I reckon it was "hot" on many occasions, and this is reflected to some extent in the analysis results.

As well, I often worked the engine quite hard with long pulls up twisting climbs with GCM of around 5.8 tonnes.

I don't know how to copy and paste the original so you'll have to put up with my home made Excell "spread sheet".

Klms on oil: 12190 6797 7616 7265 7579 (Total klms 197xxx) The last 3 changes on HPR5 5W40, the two prior on Penrite E/Plus C1 5W30

PQ Index 11 10 11 10 11

Results below in ppm (parts per million)

Fe 46 28 20 20 18
Cr 2 1 1 1 1
Cu 6 5 4 4 4
Sn less than 1
Pb less than 1
Al 11 7 8 9 10
Si 13 22 7 5 4
Na 4 1 2 1 2
K 15 1 2 7 4

Oil Condition:
Nitration: 11 10 10 9 9
Oxidation: 12 10 11 16 15
Sulphation: 19 17 17 19 19
Soot: 19 13 12 15 11

Viscosity @ 100Deg Cent:
12 12.4 11.5 9.6 9.6

Water: less than 0.01%

Note:
Silicon at 22 ppm I was not bothered as that aligned with doing the oil cooler/inlet manifolds hence some "dirt" gets in the engine no matter how clean you work.
With Iron (Fe) and Chromium (Cr) rising would explain the higher engine temps on many occasions I think.
High soot can explain my foot being down and working it hard.
% fuel is ok so not an injector dribbling or over fueling problem.

Happy to read any constructive comments, but to me it is a good case of frequent oil changes being the go, and I'll get back to circa 7000 klm changes now I am back in God's country.... Tassy.!!

PS: FYI I use Wynns engine oil additive.

I assume a 3L engine?
Soot levels are very high in my opinion - as a comparison to my 2.7 in my D3, I'm typically at <1%. Unless its not an FTIR test that might explain the different numbers. Is it PPM and not %? But the levels are reasonable stable.
Iron levels look fairly typical of these engines - I cant compare PQ as all my results are <10
2023-08-30_7-26-01.jpg
I generally see very little copper in comparison to your samples, but I see a little more lead. Possible different bearing manufacturing materials or different wear points.
Silicon at 22 I wouldn't say dirt as you didn't have a rise in aluminum at the same time which I would expect to see - possible silicone sealant would be my guess there.

Not really showing too much signs of overheating - viscosity is still ok - shearing down to a 30 grade but that's fairly typical from what I've seen in service. Oxidation levels are about where I would expect to see a semi synthetic oil to be. Just curious what are your other additives looking like - ie zinc, calcium, phosphorous etc..

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

Probably not the best way but if you are on the home page, click on Private Messages, then halfway down the left hand side, click on Edit Signature, then you should be able to play with the wording.

If you click "Settings" next to the "Log Out" button at the top right of the screen it'll take you to the settings page.
In the menu on the left a few items down you'll see "Edit Signature".

Originally Posted by shanegtr

I assume a 3L engine?
Soot levels are very high in my opinion - as a comparison to my 2.7 in my D3, I'm typically at <1%. Unless its not an FTIR test that might explain the different numbers. Is it PPM and not %? But the levels are reasonable stable.
Iron levels look fairly typical of these engines - I cant compare PQ as all my results are <10
2023-08-30_7-26-01.jpg
I generally see very little copper in comparison to your samples, but I see a little more lead. Possible different bearing manufacturing materials or different wear points.
Silicon at 22 I wouldn't say dirt as you didn't have a rise in aluminum at the same time which I would expect to see - possible silicone sealant would be my guess there.

Not really showing too much signs of overheating - viscosity is still ok - shearing down to a 30 grade but that's fairly typical from what I've seen in service. Oxidation levels are about where I would expect to see a semi synthetic oil to be. Just curious what are your other additives looking like - ie zinc, calcium, phosphorous etc..

Yes, 3.0 litre diesel.
Re additives:
Lithium, Barium, Manganese, Titanium, Vanadium and Cadmium are all less than 1%

Boron 86 113 99 24 19
Molybdenum 34 32 26 12 2
Mg 1224 1195 917 182 18 (?!!)
Zn 1288 1251 1054 779 915
Phosp 1196 1190 1016 685 876
Calc 1426 1428 1230 1193 1593
Ag 2 2 2 1 1

was a town car, up in GIN GIN Qld, never ever used offroad beach or tow 125 000km, hse Black edition with very tidy ARB Bar and lights
today fitting redarc blocking diode for the caravan battery and was installing tow pro elite , but quit this after fitting the unit and knob as I really have the use of one hand only, so bought a wireless electow thingie which i will fit to the van with allan head screws, then put a dob of weld on the screw head to stop thieving rats
if anyone knows how to stop the 8 sp.paddle shift from reverting to D, please enlighten me
buying set of used 19s Saturday, store away the Mall Crawler wheels

Originally Posted by stuarth44

was a town car, up in GIN GIN Qld, never ever used offroad beach or tow 125 000km, hse Black edition with very tidy ARB Bar and lights
today fitting redarc blocking diode for the caravan battery and was installing tow pro elite , but quit this after fitting the unit and knob as I really have the use of one hand only, so bought a wireless electow thingie which i will fit to the van with allan head screws, then put a dob of weld on the screw head to stop thieving rats
if anyone knows how to stop the 8 sp.paddle shift from reverting to D, please enlighten me
buying set of used 19s Saturday, store away the Mall Crawler wheels

The 8 speed will hold gears indefinitely when in Sport mode.

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

The 8 speed will hold gears indefinitely when in Sport mode.

...except when you stop at a traffic light and have forgotten to change down manually with the paddles in which case the trans will say to itself...."this bloke is an idiot and forgot to change down so I'd best do it myself".....

Originally Posted by cjc_td5

The 8 speed will hold gears indefinitely when in Sport mode.

thanks for that Chris