Gauges are a decent indicator of "is it running or not". ie. If the displacement valve is stuck you'll have a low high side and high low side (ie it's not moving much gas). You won't get a reliable indicator of charge level though.
I've never played with a dual evaporator unit, but it would be worth checking the pressures when it's working well (ie the rear is running flat out) vs not working well (or at all).
If the symptoms are reproducible it should be a doddle.
Given the described symptoms, have a think about this as a scenario.
A sensor is keeping the displacement valve wide open. With the front evap only the thing gets so cold it ices up. Requires a manual off/on cycle to defrost it. With the rear evap on the extra demand is enough to keep the suction temp above freezing and everything is peachy.
If you can manually turn it off then it won't be a physically jammed valve. Cabin temp sensor telling the controller it's always too hot? Do you have a scan tool?
If the evap is icing you'll see that on the gauges anyway.


 
					
					 Originally Posted by shack
 Originally Posted by shack
					
 
				
				
				
					 Reply With Quote
  Reply With Quote 
					
					 
						
					 
			
Bookmarks