Printable View
Attachment 156664Thanks, i had already seen your previous post. It the pin numbering on the wiring diagram almost caught me out too, although my symptoms do sound similar to the issues in the other thread - I’m certain it is wired correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Here’s some of the information i found which helped me out with the wiring - it might help someone in future.
Attachment 156663
Attachment 156661Attachment 156662
I have a scan tool. All of the relevant voltages on the tool look consistent with the multimeter on the battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
I guess this means that the ECU/ECM knows that the voltage on the battery terminals is exceeding 15v.
Once the voltage becomes excessive, the first noticeable thing is a flickering of the instrument panel backlighting (noticeable at night only), followed by the shutdown of the media amplifier (although the head unit controls continue to act as normal), after this the Transmission usually faults (with an excess voltage error code), and then all the other control modules seem to fault simultaneously following this, lastly followed by the ECM, at which point, everything electronic stops.
Can you or did you do a battery reset?
A couple of mentions of this. I have not done a battery reset.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Ive seen that the D4 has the battery monitoring system, but i cant find any mention of it for the earlier model year D3s.
Yeah I'm notup to date enough with this on d3's to know that. I didn't read the D3 bit. I know it made a big difference on my D4 .
Have you got a photo of the of new pig tail before you joined it into they harness. Has the as pin 1 got battery voltage before the car starts and does it have battery voltage once the car is running.
Did you bare back plenty of wire before crimping those red joiners in?
Paper clips make good tools into those harness plugs .
Where are you, I seen Chichester. Send us a pm you might not be that far away
I don’t have a photo, but checked it lots of times. Pin 1 is the bat sense and has power both before and after starting the engine. Power is lost when removing the F20E 5w fuse.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Yes. I’ve also cut off the connections and reconnected just to be sure. Today I ran a continuity test from the alternator connector to the ECM harness connector for both PWM wires and didn’t find issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
I'm on the Gold Coast. But the issue began with my drowning the alternator at Chichester. Thanks a lot for the offer though, it’s driving me crazy.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
You need to measure the power at pin 2 with it running to see what the ECM is commanding.
So you have the factory Brown wire crimped into the terminal furthest away from the main battery cable?
yes. Then the red/white in the centre.Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
Hi Josh. I’ll be honest, I’m not an electrician, Please can you explain this?Quote:
Originally Posted by josh.huber
My understanding is that the two control wires to the ECU work on a PWM/CANbus system, so measuring the voltage shouldn’t provide any clues? If I was to measure this, I imagine that i would have to measure across two ends of the wire, and not to an earth point?
i have checked for continuity from the connector at the alternator to the ECM connector and found no issues. When connected up correctly, I get no error codes, but if I break continuity on either the Control or Monitor wire, I get the alternator light and error codes. This makes me think the ecu is communicating correctly with the alternator.
Does my thinking sound right?
