Reply With QuoteFair call DJ. It is interesting that penrite specs first red then blue coolant. Other comments noted too. Don't know if I'm hurting my water pump or not.
OldBushie
Don’t forget Colour isn’t an indicator of coolant type. Except by brand.
You need to know the brand
ChatterBox
SubscriberFair call DJ. It is interesting that penrite specs first red then blue coolant. Other comments noted too. Don't know if I'm hurting my water pump or not.
OldBushie
When you say first Red, then Blue where are you looking?Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
The Pro and Enthusiast apps both say ONLY blue 8yr OEM
TopicToaster
SubscriberI don’t trust anything they say when they have up to date contradictory material published.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
ChatterBox
SubscriberPenrite site now says blue 8yr coolant: Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil
In Nov 2018, the same site / product selector specced the red 8yr 500,000km concentrate...
TopicToaster
SubscriberAnd their static documentation says both products meet the applicable Ford spec hence the last thousand posts.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
OldBushie
Interestingly Nulon ranks 3 choices.
One Coolant
Heavy Diesel
Red Long Life
Red long life is silicate free (documented) the others don’t state.
One Coolant and Red Long Life both have the Ford Spec...
The Nulon coolant brochure states Blue LL has no Silicates.
I don’t know if they even know what’s what!
TopicToaster
SubscriberI am not trying to be difficult, honestly. I try and make decisions empirically, and so far I just don’t have detailed factual data to say what’s what. Having the actual spec would finalise this debate. I’m so tempted to pay for it!!!’
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
OldBushie
Never saw your enquiries as difficult.
Just went and compared another brand to see what they recommended.
So after a heap of reading on a few sites (not coolant makers but cooling system engineers) - here’s the skinny on what is what:
***Hybrid SiOATs***
In Europe, problems with hard water minerals forced coolant technologies to be phosphate-free. Calcium and magnesium, minerals found in hard water, react with phosphate inhibitors to form calcium or magnesium phosphate, which typically leads to scale formation on hot engine surfaces. This could lead to loss of heat transfer or corrosion under the scale.
To replace phosphates, conventional European coolants contain a mix of inorganic oxides like silicates and inhibitors called carboxylates. Carboxylates provide corrosion protection by chemically interacting at the metallic corrosion sites, rather than by forming a layer of inhibitors that cover the total surface.
The mix of carboxylates and silicates is also called a hybrid technology because it is a mix of conventional inorganic technology and fully carboxylate or organic technology. European engine coolants exist in various colors; typically each manufacturer requires a different color.
***And then there’s OATs with no Silicates.***
In Asia, problems with water pump seals and poor heat transfer have led to the ban of coolants containing silicate. To provide protection, most coolants contain a mix of carboxylates and inorganic inhibitors like phosphates.
These coolants are hybrids. They are distinct from the European hybrids due to the lack of silicates. Coolants from Asian OEMs can be a variety of colors including red, orange and green.
Extended-life carboxylate-based coolants were developed to be globally acceptable and provide superior performance over existing technologies. This technology is also known as organic additive technology (OATs). Because full carboxylate coolants have no silicates, they meet the stringent requirements of the Asian specifications.
They also meet the European antifreeze requirements because they have no phosphates. These engine coolants have developed international popularity due to having an unsurpassed corrosion protection for extended time intervals.
Essentially no Silicates helps cooling by better contact between coolant and metal surfaces.
ChatterBox
SubscriberOk this is going to be my drain strategy.
I will do a demin rinse stage after dropping the old coolant with the flush product added.
In the rinse stage is a solid drive good enough vs the manuals rev to 3000 for 1 minute then idle for 5 minutes and repeat instruction?
Just a quick question for anyone out there on temps.
How long do you need to let the engine cool down for draining and then do you need to wait further until real cool before filling again with the cold water or new coolant?
Thanks
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