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Thread: 2.7 TDV6 locking crank to remove nose bolt for oil pump replacement

  1. #11
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    2.7 TDV6 locking crank to remove nose bolt for oil pump replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Yes, you are right, but there doesn't seem to be much guidance on what the correct specs should be. I think it's time for a new thread to discuss this separately so that it's finable as a resource.
    There absolutely is. If no one beats me to it it’s in the manual, but it’s not much different to most engines. 0.5-1bar at idle up to 4 bar at revs st engine operating temps (exact figures to be verified).
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    There absolutely is. If no one beats me to it it’s in the manual, but it’s not much different to most engines. 0.5-1bar at idle up to 4 bar at revs st engine operating temps (exact figures to be verified).
    More numbers here also : DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Tdv6 oil pressure

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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    I'm also considering doing the oil pump, as although I should have the later version with the strengthened timing belt tension mount, our engine is a bit noisey at idle. So it's a bit of a gamble whether it's worth the extra $200.00 or so in parts plus time.
    Ok so you do have some suspicions - as the belts are being done then I would be thinking the same - actually only about $170 in parts from Ford ($450 from LR) - the only issue is getting the crank bolt off which need the crank to be locked - starter needs to come out to get the relevant pin in.

    For that price I would be doing it.

    By the time you stuff around getting the gear and fittings to test oil pressure you would be well on the way to buying the new oil pump.

    Garry
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Ok so you do have some suspicions - as the belts are being done then I would be thinking the same - actually only about $170 in parts from Ford ($450 from LR) - the only issue is getting the crank bolt off which need the crank to be locked - starter needs to come out to get the relevant pin in.

    For that price I would be doing it.

    By the time you stuff around getting the gear and fittings to test oil pressure you would be well on the way to buying the new oil pump.
    That's my thoughts. It's $170.00 for the genuine Ford pump delivered, plus I'd need a new crankshaft oil seal, two pumps seals and the new crank bolt (all of which I've already purchased either OEM or genuine Land Rover items of and have on hand ready).

  5. #15
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    I think you will find that the Ford oil pump comes with the oil seal, gasket etc (all in LR packaging) - you only need the new crank bolt.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    I think you will find that the Ford oil pump comes with the oil seal, gasket etc (all in LR packaging) - you only need the new crank bolt.
    Bonus. The LR one doesn't according to microcat listings.

    According to Microcat 2 x 1346539 oil pump seals are required:


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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    I think you will find that the Ford oil pump comes with the oil seal, gasket etc (all in LR packaging) - you only need the new crank bolt.
    No crank seal but gasket is included.
    By gasket it's actually a rubber perimeter seal.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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