Thread: If its made it this far is it likely to break?

Originally Posted by theelms66

I bought a 07 rrs tdv6 for 10k only months ago and am up to 15k already belts,injectors,front diff etc.

Pretty easy to clock up those sorts of costs,that’s why resale on these vehicles is so poor,no one wants them.

If you do the work yourself you could save a heap of dollars,that is if you have the time,expertise,and can put up with a vehicle being off the road at times,and probably being generally unreliable.

Originally Posted by scarry

Pretty easy to clock up those sorts of costs,that’s why resale on these vehicles is so poor,no one wants them.

If you do the work yourself you could save a heap of dollars,that is if you have the time,expertise,and can put up with a vehicle being off the road at times,and probably being generally unreliable.

Thats one reason i bought a petrol. Much less to go wrong. They were also about $7k cheaper at the time!

The Farm smells alone have got to be worth 5K.


Funny things smells. No really.

The house we are currently in has the original family's horse drawn Wagon stables from the old days aprox. 100' away.

When it rains we get the same Chaff perfume smell from the chaff dust that has obviously settled in the roof space which is not unpleasant, & a reminder of another age when horses were king.
The stables themselves have soil covered red Brick floors & one day I may get a bobcat in to scrape the floors. It has 14-16" Diameter Old Stringy bark Poles with a very high iron roof with a "Mezzanine" floor above where the Loose boxes were, where they used to store bags of onions in the airy & dry locations.


Suits us.

I would go for it,that's the price of a D2 similar Kms.Give it a full service,including transmission steel pan and handbrake adjustmentHopefully cambelts have been changed..Coolant flush and a new outlet LR073372.Change dessicant in the air compressor. Be prepared for suspension bushes to be knackered......brake pads/rotors.All straight forward stuff.

Originally Posted by 4bee

The Farm smells alone have got to be worth 5K.


Funny things smells. No really.

The house we are currently in has the original family's horse drawn Wagon stables from the old days aprox. 100' away.

When it rains we get the same Chaff perfume smell from the chaff dust that has obviously settled in the roof space which is not unpleasant, & a reminder of another age when horses were king.
The stables themselves have soil covered red Brick floors & one day I may get a bobcat in to scrape the floors. It has 14-16" Diameter Old Stringy bark Poles with a very high iron roof with a "Mezzanine" floor above where the Loose boxes were, where they used to store bags of onions in the airy & dry locations.


Suits us.

All part of the charm

Originally Posted by eddy

I would go for it,that's the price of a D2 similar Kms.Give it a full service,including transmission steel pan and handbrake adjustmentHopefully cambelts have been changed..Coolant flush and a new outlet LR073372.Change dessicant in the air compressor. Be prepared for suspension bushes to be knackered......brake pads/rotors.All straight forward stuff.

Thanks for the info, obvious next question would have been what to focus on and fix so this is a great help.

Appreciate it.

What I will say as owner of an MY08 tdv6 from near new that, compared with other cars I have owned to older ages, the cosmetics of the car are incredibly good. Other well garaged cars I’ve owned literally fall apart - internal trim panels fall off, door panels start to fail. Seats spilt, switches fall out and paint peels and the car becomes a POS.

The Disco not so. Other than centre console lid everything is tight and looks new car when clean. I put a dash mat on but eerything still works and looks good. Certainly zero rust issues on mine.

I do worry about things like aircon evaporator failure that might require dash removal but even this is ‘easier’ on a disco (especially older ones) compared to smaller exotic cars. (Only because this happened on another car we owned and no aircon is a nightmare)

Externally, a few faded bits of black plastic under windscreen and headlight washers - easily fixable if I cared to.

Outside of the engine and tranny the rest mechanicals are robust and well understood and fixable DIY in the main. Parts can be competitively sourced and with proper maintenance all items can and do go a very long way.

At those high kms some money has to have been spent on maintenance or replacement parts or else everything will be knackered pretty much you’d have to fear. You pays now or pays later either way.

A whole bunch of normal high mileage problems like wheel bearings and drive shaft and diffs (and even coolant leaks) give you heaps of warning and are not the end of the world to fix.

So, having owned a few boats you need to look at big failures as a not if but when contingency so outside of top quality annual maintenance allow an annual budget, say $2k so that after 5 years you’ve got $10k in a sinking fund for when something pops. Wishful thinking but a proper strategy for peace of mind.

For urgent immediate items right now I’d focus on working out what if anything has been done i.e timing belts and then outside of critical repairs put money immediately toward a thorough inspection and big refresh of suspension & steering and the cooling system.

Suspension & Steering:
Tie rods
U&L Control Arms
Air bag units
Compressor
Service the air valves
All wheel bearings
Check CV boots
Allow $7k

Cooling:
Replace radiator and check hoses
Replace suspect plastic engine fittings, coolant bottle etc.
Allow $5k

Full oils and fluid and filter change

Any rubber or plastic part you can easily change like flex brake hoses just change them. A good Indy will have these covered.

The status of the oils will tell a knowledgeable person what the insides look like.

If you did the above you’d still have a cheap car that looks great and drives and handles like new and had little chance of cooking itself over a $20 plastic fitting.

The rest is in the hands of luck or fate.

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

What I will say as owner of an MY08 tdv6 from near new that, compared with other cars I have owned to older ages, the cosmetics of the car are incredibly good. Other well garaged cars I’ve owned literally fall apart - internal trim panels fall off, door panels start to fail. Seats spilt, switches fall out and paint peels and the car becomes a POS.

The Disco not so. Other than centre console lid everything is tight and looks new car when clean. I put a dash mat on but eerything still works and looks good. Certainly zero rust issues on mine.

I do worry about things like aircon evaporator failure that might require dash removal but even this is ‘easier’ on a disco (especially older ones) compared to smaller exotic cars.

Externally, a few faded bits of black plastic under windscreen and headlight washers - easily fixable if I cared to.

Outside of the engine and tranny the rest mechanicals are robust and well understood and fixable DIY in the main. Parts can be competitively sourced and with proper maintenance all items can and do go a very long way.

At those high kms some money has to have been spent on maintenance or replacement parts or else everything will be knackered pretty much you’d have to fear. You pays now or pays later either way.

A whole bunch of normal high mileage problems like wheel bearings and drive shaft and diffs (and even coolant leaks) give you heaps of warning and are not the end of the world to fix.

So, having owned a few boats you need to look at big failures as a not if but when contingency so outside of top quality annual maintenance allow an annual budget, say $2k so that after 5 years you’ve got $10k in a sinking fund for when something pops. Wishful thinking but a proper strategy for peace of mind.

For urgent immediate items right now I’d focus on working out what if anything has been done i.e timing belts and then outside of critical repairs put money immediately toward a thorough inspection and big refresh of suspension & steering and the cooling system.

Suspension & Steering:
Tie rods
U&L Control Arms
Air bag units
Compressor
Service the air valves
All wheel bearings
Check CV boots
Allow $7k

Cooling:
Replace radiator and check hoses
Replace suspect plastic engine fittings, coolant bottle etc.
Allow $5k

Full oils and fluid and filter change

Any rubber or plastic part you can easily change like flex brake hoses just change them. A good Indy will have these covered.

The status of the oils will tell a knowledgeable person what the insides look like.

If you did the above you’d still have a cheap car that looks great and drives and handles like new and had little chance of cooking itself over a $20 plastic fitting.

The rest is in the hands of luck or fate.

Thanks for the solid advice and list of items to check and attend to. The centre armrest is torn on this one and seems a common issue easliy fixed. The car does not need to be on the road right away so I have plenty of time to work through solving any propblems etc and changing out parts etc.