Neat install and nice write up.
One very serious suggestion - lose that bracket and other gear above your/your wife’s left leg.
In a prang there’s your leg severed or worse.
Hi guys, first time poster long time advice seeker. I own a 2010 Disco 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE. I love the car and so does my wife (who mostly drives it).
I just thought I’d post on my recent set up with some driving lights that I installed. My wife was concerned it would look like she’s driving a truck so I tried to come up with a way to make them a little less conspicuous.
So let me step it out:
1. 3 x 5inch Super Single Row LED Work Driving Lights Bar Flood Spot 4WD & 1 x Plug and Play High Beam Driving Light Wiring Harness Kit LED bar Loom H4 HB3 4WD - all from eBay and cost about $140
2. Install wiring harness - in the end this was really simple however I attempted to be as factory finish as possible and attempted to piggy back off the fog light switch instead of use the supplied switch - the Disco just didn’t like it for whatever reason and I couldn’t get it to work (could also be inexperience and my very basic knowledge in auto-elecs) - in the end I used the supplied switch, removed an existing bracket that houses the trailer brake and made a new bracket that fits the brake controls and the driving light switch, which is mounted down and to the left of the steering wheel.
I fed the wire for the switch through a spare grommet in the firewall located up and to the left of the steering column (inside cab) and approximately to the right of the brake booster assembly (engine bay).
The only other modification I had to make to the car itself was to splice and solder into the Blue/Slate (Highbeam) wire on the back of the passenger side quick disconnect combination headlight plug.
Then mounted the relay to an existing mounting/earth bolt near the battery.
3. Wired the driving lights into a quick disconnect Deutsch plug.
4. Fabricated a bracket to mount the lights so that they would sit behind the grill but light through the larger of the grill openings (hard to explain but the pictures show what I mean). It took a bit of adjusting and modification but I managed to get them mounted without and modification to the grill or the car.
In the end I’m really happy with how it looks, I’m really happy with the how factory the wiring seems, and with how hidden everything is.
I’m not sold on the lights - it definitely gives off a lot of extra light but not as long distance and I’d hoped although my impression is that distance lighting isn’t generally a strength of light bars anyway and you’d be better off with actually spotlight/driving lights for that.
I hope that helps some others out there thinking of doing a similar thing. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.
Cheers,
Jono
Neat install and nice write up.
One very serious suggestion - lose that bracket and other gear above your/your wife’s left leg.
In a prang there’s your leg severed or worse.
Thanks mate.
It’s a good point. I’ll definitely be trying to move stuff around eventually - was just trying not make any new mods to the inside for now - not a big fan of lots of holes in my dash etc. but you make a good point.
No worries.
Using the removable panel as a mounting point isn’t a bad one.
Once you’re done with the vehicle you can pick one up from a wreckers cheaply and just replace it
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hard to imagine how lights that you can't see are going to help you see!
Fyrlyts.jpg
Haha this is true - it’s really just an idea I had and a bit of an experiment.
When go and do our round Aus trip I’ll definitely be putting a roo bar on and proper driving lights - unfortunately for my wife then it will be like a truck (to her anyway) - I’ll like it.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
 Member
					
					
						Member
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi Jono,
When you went through that spare grommit, did you also have to poke a hole through the insulation on the other side of the fire wall?
2. Install wiring harness - in the end this was really simple however I attempted to be as factory finish as possible and attempted to piggy back off the fog light switch instead of use the supplied switch - the Disco just didn’t like it for whatever reason and I couldn’t get it to work (could also be inexperience and my very basic knowledge in auto-elecs) - in the end I used the supplied switch, removed an existing bracket that houses the trailer brake and made a new bracket that fits the brake controls and the driving light switch, which is mounted down and to the left of the steering wheel.
I fed the wire for the switch through a spare grommet in the firewall located up and to the left of the steering column (inside cab) and approximately to the right of the brake booster assembly (engine bay).
The only other modification I had to make to the car itself was to splice and solder into the Blue/Slate (Highbeam) wire on the back of the passenger side quick disconnect combination headlight plug.
Then mounted the relay to an existing mounting/earth bolt near the battery.

 Member
					
					
						Member
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi Jono, when you went through the spare grommot, did you also have to make a new hole through the insulation on the cabin side of the fire wall?
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