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Thread: Has anyone used the non genuine steel transmission pan?

  1. #11
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    To change the filter with the steel pan is just as difficult as it is with the plastic pan - the only saving is that you do not have to buy a new pan when you do the filter with the steel pan. Both pans have to come off for filter changes, it is just that the palstic pan is wrecked where the steel pan stays intact - but both have to come off.

    I bought my steel pan etc from ZF so genuine and the same price as ebay.
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  2. #12
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    Steel Pan

    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    To change the filter with the steel pan is just as difficult as it is with the plastic pan - the only saving is that you do not have to buy a new pan when you do the filter with the steel pan. Both pans have to come off for filter changes, it is just that the palstic pan is wrecked where the steel pan stays intact - but both have to come off.

    I bought my steel pan etc from ZF so genuine and the same price as ebay.
    Like I said less mucking around!

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    To change the filter with the steel pan is just as difficult as it is with the plastic pan - the only saving is that you do not have to buy a new pan when you do the filter with the steel pan. Both pans have to come off for filter changes, it is just that the palstic pan is wrecked where the steel pan stays intact - but both have to come off.

    I bought my steel pan etc from ZF so genuine and the same price as ebay.
    Not just as difficult. Getting the new plastic pan back on requires more disassembly to get the plastic pan back in place to align the filter spigot. That’s the main advantage of the steel pan, but I get your point.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
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  4. #14
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    You gotta ask that when they designed the metal pan why they didn't design it so the filter could be changed with the pan in place - a simple cutout with a bolt on cover - undo the cover - drop the filter and replace and then put the cover back on.
    REMLR 243

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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    You gotta ask that when they designed the metal pan why they didn't design it so the filter could be changed with the pan in place - a simple cutout with a bolt on cover - undo the cover - drop the filter and replace and then put the cover back on.
    That would be something else that leaks, every other auto in the world pretty much needs the pan dropped to replace the filter.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  6. #16
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    what would be better would be to have a spin on filter built into the trans - but not many have that. The vast majority are all in pan filters that are incorporated into the oil pickup
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
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  7. #17
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    I have been considering changing to the steel pan but have gone on the "if it isn't broke why fix it" thinking. How often should the Filter in the pan be changed/cleaned??? I have done a fair bit of caravan towing and have been pretty good with the oil changes but haven't been near the filter in the pan. Thoughts would be appreciated.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DunnToImpress View Post
    I have been considering changing to the steel pan but have gone on the "if it isn't broke why fix it" thinking. How often should the Filter in the pan be changed/cleaned??? I have done a fair bit of caravan towing and have been pretty good with the oil changes but haven't been near the filter in the pan. Thoughts would be appreciated.
    I've done alot of work on rebuilding ZF transmissions, and have done 1 or 2 in my time. I've also done a few Mechatronic refurbishments when there has been transmission issues.
    One in particular was on a 5 sereies BMW where the transmission was slipping alot.
    one of the places I took it to told me that the transmission needed replacing.

    I didn't buy this, I pulled the mechatronic system off (drop pan and remove it) and replaced all teh valvles> a ZF parts place near my house, bought the entire valve kit for 600 dollars, simple plug and play of the old valves and installed it. The fill up procedure of the BMW's is the same as the LR, fill it, get it up to temp, fill it some more etc.
    Transmission issues were totally resolved and the car ran for another 100 thou before selling. Transmission was smooth as silk.

    The advantage is that you should really drop the oil in the tranmission once a year, to prolong the life of the transmission, Think of it as preventative maintance. The only cost would be to replace the filter and oil after you have done th steel conversion.

    There are youtube videos online that show how to take off teh plastic filter without needing to remove teh cross brace, or the engine mount - they cut the plastic up pipe with a hacksaw blade, and can slip the metalpan in with minimal fuss.
    its not a huge job if you have enough room under the car.

  9. #19
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    Thanks Oohsam, i have had the oil changed a couple of times using the transfer system, all the old oil is removed via the heat exchanger and new oil replaced the same way. this has been done at 75k and last week at 125k. I am happy with what has been done but am a bit concerned about the filter needing to be changed. Will look into this more for the next Trans oil change at 175k.

  10. #20
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    I believe ZF recommend oil changes not later than every 80,000km and the filter every 120,000km but I cannot quote the source.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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