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Thread: Discovery 3 Cranks but does not start or Starts and Cuts immidiately

  1. #1
    OutlawLR3 Guest

    Discovery 3 Cranks but does not start or Starts and Cuts immidiately

    Hey Folks, i have a 2004 LR3 Discovery 2.7 TDV6 and it worked like a charm until 399600km. I(diot) pressurewashed my engine bay and then the trouble began.

    I had some transmission and transfercase faults. I could delete them with nanocom. Later that day the car itself cycled the locks and made some weird flashing. I put silica dry pads in the car and disconnected the battery over night.

    Next day the flashing and locks-problem was gone, and i was happy as mf. But as i wanted to start it, it immediately cuttet off.

    If i just put the key to ignition stage 2 it makes some weird clanks 6 times, then its silent. And wont start, in the clank-time the car starts but cuts out after 1-2 seconds. After the clank time its just cranking but does not start.

    these are the errorcodes from Nanocom:

    FAULT 1 OF 14
    ECU: Engine Management
    CODE:P140A
    Exhaust gas recirculation sensor C - circuit low
    (PENDING)
    GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
    NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

    FAULT 2 OF 14
    ECU: Engine Management
    CODE:P0562
    System voltage low
    (PENDING)
    GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
    NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

    FAULT 3 OF 14
    ECU: Engine Management
    CODE:P0A09
    DC/DC converter fault circuit low
    (PENDING)
    GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
    NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

    FAULT 4 OF 14
    ECU: Engine Management
    CODE:P1136
    Control box fan circuit
    (PENDING)
    GENERAL FAILURE INFORMATION -
    NO SUBTYPE INFORMATION.

    FAULT 5 OF 14
    ECU: Transfer Case
    CODE:U0132
    Lost communication with ride level ctrl module / Lost communication with suspension ctrl module A
    (PERMANENT)
    BUS SIGNAL/MESSAGE FAILURE -
    SIGNAL IS INVALID.

    FAULT 6 OF 14 ###car is maximum dropped because of the removed battery###
    ECU: Ride Level
    CODE:C1A74
    Rear left height sensor mechanism
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE.

    FAULT 7 OF 14 ###car is maximum dropped###
    ECU: Ride Level
    CODE:C1A75
    Rear right height sensor mechanism
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE.

    FAULT 8 OF 14
    ECU: All Terrain Control
    CODE:U0421
    Invalid data received from ride level control module
    (PENDING)
    COMPONENT FAILURE -
    UNEXPECTED OPERATION.

    FAULT 9 OF 14
    ECU: Airbags/SRS
    CODE:B1A55
    Crash record output circuit
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND OR OPEN.

    FAULT 10 OF 14
    ECU: Body Control
    CODE:B1C26
    Pedal motor feedback circuit
    (PERMANENT)
    FREQUENCY MODULATION/PULSE WIDTH MODULATION FAILURE -
    INCORRECT, HAS TOO MANY PULSES.

    FAULT 11 OF 14 ###I dont have these, old failure###
    ECU: Body Control
    CODE:B1C32
    Steering column tilt solenoid
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT OPEN.

    FAULT 12 OF 14 ###I dont have these either###
    ECU: Body Control
    CODE:B1C34
    Steering column telescope solenoid
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT OPEN.

    FAULT 13 OF 14 ###Have no wiper there so i removed the fuse, old error!###
    ECU: Body Control
    CODE:B1C77
    Rear wiper relay coil circuit
    (PERMANENT)
    GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE -
    CIRCUIT SHORT TO GROUND OR OPEN.

    FAULT 14 OF 14
    ECU: Audio Front Control
    CODE:U1A03
    Vehicle configuration parameter
    (PERMANENT)
    ALGORITHM BASED FAILURE -
    SIGNAL COMPARE FAILURE.


    These dont make sense to me, and i dont know where to start... may you ppl help me?

    Thanks so much in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Ok. First step. Remove the battery and get the the ECU’s that sit behind there. Get in there and dry it all out. Dry it out well. Maybe a gentle heater in the vicinity. You’ll probably find they’re sipping wet in the plugs and possibly internally (though hope not) and giving the errors. This is not uncommon after a pressure wash in the engine bay.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  3. #3
    OutlawLR3 Guest
    Okay, ill take them out to dry. maybe this will help. Thank you! Please give some more tips guys if you have them!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Yes, very common to soak those ECUs behind the battery...
    Dry dry and dry them, it'll take a bit of time but it's the only way.

    First time I did it was the last time I did it...🤬🤬
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
    OutlawLR3 Guest
    Thanks, I unmounted it and put It in my oven at 70°C and opened it, dried everything and put it back in. Unfortunately, nothing has changed. Its still cutting out after seconds.

  6. #6
    OutlawLR3 Guest
    If I push the throttle I can rev it up a little and keep it running for maybe 4-6 seconds, but I won't do that again because my old lady is cold. maybe I will have to put the engine in another d3, but this can't be something big because everything is working for about 6 seconds...

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    You could remove the ecm then use a hair dryer to dry the connectors on the wiring harnesses and any other connectors in there.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    You could remove the ecm then use a hair dryer to dry the connectors on the wiring harnesses and any other connectors in there.
    Yeah. It’s not necessarily the ECU itself but all the connectors, wiring etc with residual water in there. If you leave the bonnet open, nature will take its course.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Yeah. It’s not necessarily the ECU itself but all the connectors, wiring etc with residual water in there. If you leave the bonnet open, nature will take its course.
    Seeing he is in Germany and temps would at a guess be about 10 degrees , maybe a hairdryer might be a bit quicker...

    good advice for the rest of us tho.

    Bulletman

  10. #10
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    Hahaha. Yeah fair lol.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

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